Milan Fashion Week SS18: Jil Sander, Missoni, Marni, and More

On September 23, the creative directors of Jil Sander, Lucie and Luke Meier, presented their first collection for the brand. The new line balanced between perfection and imperfection, infused with the brand’s core DNA—soul, sensitivity, humanity, and quality—and an embracem of life’s many enjoyments, like art, film, spirituality, and overall consciousness. Both men’s and women’s looks featured a pure palette of whites, with touches of navy, black, and camel colors seen throughout. Knits were in bright colors, revving up the collection’s airy drapes to include bold and emotional standout pieces.

For Agnona’s spring/summer 2018 collection, creative director Simon Holloway was inspired by two paintings by David Hockney—American Collectors (Fred and Marcia Weisman) from 1968 and Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures) from 1972. Brushstrokes in pale yellow, citrine, lavender, mint, lime, jade, and raspberry were translated into double layered jackets and coats, sheer top layers, and soft wrap skirts. Cashmere, wool, cotton, and silk jersey materials were used in exaggerated drapes, twills, and knitwear—altogether forming a uniquely colorful collection.

For spring/summer 2018, Missoni kept to its iconic celebration of texture, layering, and color by presenting, for the first time together, both men’s and women’s. For women, there were soft pastels and multicolored motifs—in stripes, lines, and the brand’s infamous zig-zags. Transparent materials like lace and netted knits were seen alongside embroidered details and appliqués. There were oversized cardigans, maxi skirts, and close-fitting body suits, too. This year is also special for the brand, as Angela Missoni celebrated her 20^th anniversary as creative director. To mark the event, Missoni released a capsule collection, “Angela 20,” with fun tanks and sweaters.

Playful and spirited, Marni presented its spring/summer 2018 collection which included spontaneous, joyful, and surprising pieces. Female figures from early David Salle drawings were sourced for inspiration, as was the Dada movement, shaken (not stirred!) cocktails, and nods to the 1920s. Florals were seen standing out alongside other funky prints, and fur, beaded embroidery, and color-blocking all made a name for themselves. With a balance between micro and macro, and masculine and feminine, the collection was disruptive in its beauty.

Roberto Cavalli’s Paul Surridge’s found inspiration in a magnetic and strong female muse on the move. The collection offered a dynamic, athletic, and realistic approach to daywear, showing warm, natural hues drawn from the Tuscan landscape. Elevating the everyday wardrobe, we saw at-ease t-shirts mixed between beaded gowns and leather pieces.