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A Desert Daydream: Saint Laurent’s Hypnotizing SS21 Collection

Eliza Jordan

15 December 2020

In a desolate desert landscape, Saint Laurent staged its women’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection for a film fit for sore eyes. The mesmerizing video captured by longtime collaborator Nathalie Canguilhem was released this morning, showing sandhills as far as the eyes can see.

Saint Laurent.

Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Dotting the horizon were models adorned in clothing reminiscent of the 1960s, with soft shapes, thick materials, and flounces of feathers ruffling from edges drawing us in. To a soundtrack by French musician Sébastien Akchoté-Bozović (known as SebastiAn), the desert daydream began to hypnotize us as women walked single-file down dunes of fashion for the future.

Saint Laurent.

Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Anthony Vaccarello stuck to his lean lines and magnificent attention to detail, but this time payed homage to the unprecedented time we are living in. New styles shown in broad daylight were looks that fashion lovers trapped indoors amid a pandemic are now familiar with.

Saint Laurent.

Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

At times, a mix of comfort with confidence, and style with class, is still in need of a little zhuzh. For Spring/Summer 2021, the high-low look is elevated with dramatic details, including sumptuous materials, classic accessories, and colorful jewelry—some designed by Claude Lalanne.

Saint Laurent.

Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

Silk blouses and thin rider shorts were seen under smoking jackets and shimmering cardigans, but paired withplayful details—like a trim of marabout fringes and sheer polka dot hosiery—for an uplifted approach. Fantastical florals on chiffon dance from the fabric, micro wallet bags on a chain wrap around the waist, and ribbed biker shorts bearing the “YSL” monogram hug the figure.

Saint Laurent.

Courtesy of Saint Laurent.

“I wanted to focus on the essence of things. I think it’s a sign of the times,” said Vaccarello. “But I didn’t want anything bleak or heavy. The desert, to me, symbolizes that yearn for serenity, open space, a slower rhythm. The clothes are also softer, the spirit of the collection is more gentle, stripped back.”

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Saint Laurent's lavish new space rejoices in the brand’s glamorous past, while introducing clients to its visionary future.
Anthony Vaccarello imagined a collection for Saint Laurent that played with our idea of visibility for winter 2024.

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