London Fashion Week is well underway, and here Whitewall extends an invitation to the city’s most vivid and ethereal shows from Erdem, Emilia Wickstead, Ahluwalia, and more.
Erdem Pays Homage to Radclyffe Hall’s 1928 novel “The Well of Loneliness”
Photo by by Jason Lloyd Evans, courtesy of ERDEM.
Photo by by Jason Lloyd Evans, courtesy of ERDEM.
Erdem paid exquisite homage to English poet and author Radclyffe Hall’s 1928 novel “The Well of Loneliness” for its Spring/Summer 2025 presentation. The historic masterpiece, banned for its profound tale of a woman living as a man with her partner, paves the way for a boundary-breaking collection of masculine and feminine incandescence. With a parade of noble, handmade looks in partnership with Savile Row tailor Edward Sexton, an explorative and optimistic fashion moment emerges. Strapping suits awash in pistachio and dusty pink met with celestial, jeweled gowns enhanced by 1920s-inspired drop-waist silhouettes. Soft, relaxed cardigans were thrown over delicate tea dresses, and the carnation—a radiant and enduring queer emblem—appeared on a myriad of garments, both vivid and ethereal.
Emilia Wickstead Invokes the Keen Eye of Photographer Gisèle Freund
Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead.
Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead.
The keen, feminine eye and high-profile muses of German-born French photographer Gisèle Freund energized Emilia Wickstead’s Spring/Summer 2025 catwalk, imbuing each look with ebullient duality and luxury. A luscious palette sparked by bubble gum pink, electric blue, and fern green, gave way to gentle pastel hues and earth tones. Idyllic flowers bloomed across day and evening ensembles, with skillful embellishments popping up on garments and accessories alike. Meticulous tailoring fluctuated seamlessly between the masculine and the feminine, with fine details like rippling looped collars and springy hems. Opulent moments of beading cascaded across column dresses, and a stylish partnership with heritage shoemaker Grenson produced whimsical sandals with tailor-made fringe.
Ahluwalia’s Ode to “Home Sweet Home” for Spring/Summer 2025
Photo by Stefan Knauer and Olivier Caisse, courtesy of Ahluwalia.
Photo by Stefan Knauer and Olivier Caisse, courtesy of Ahluwalia.
“Home Sweet Home” was the sincere title of Ahluwalia’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show. A tender stage was set with layered, Vintage Persian and Indian rugs of Shame Studios, as well as with beaded curtains enhanced by marigolds and dried chilies of Nigerian and Indian tradition. Creative Director Priya Ahluwalia debuted an exuberant collaboration with Pandora jewelry, offering a patchwork of 14k yellow gold pieces with freshwater cultured pearls and kaleidoscopic crystals. PUMA’s Speedcat sneaker grounded a number of romantic looks, while prominent, paneled fabrics in vivacious knots or pleats, woven dresses, and gradient knits echoed the lyrical pulling of heart strings towards hearth and home.
The Effortless Puppets and Puppets Mystery Endures
Photo by Iker Aldama, courtesy of Puppets and Puppets.
Photo by Iker Aldama, courtesy of Puppets and Puppets.
The Puppets and Puppets Spring/Summer 2025 collection was purely streamlined for powerful effect. Models strutted barefoot across a stone floor, unveiling minimalist onyx undergarments. At times a chic accessory was on display, such as a slick, black handbag, dual corsets reserved for the thighs, silky opera gloves, or a jaunty black cap. Second skin jeans in deep, blue denim paved the way for a succession of loose, white t-shirts, pearl and metallic handbags, as well as a t-shirt centered by an enigmatic graphic design. Lacey face coverings paired with half-leather gloves added an additional dose of provocation, as did jewels placed atop the visage. Elegant sweaters were paired with white collars, and a zippered sweatshirt with fluffy, ebony fur enhanced the ever so effortless Puppets and Puppets mystery.
JW Anderson Uplifits Specificity and Simplicity
Courtesy of JW Anderson.
Courtesy of JW Anderson.
Specificity and simplicity ruled the JW Anderson Women’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway. Deliberate material selections of silk satin, cashmere knitwear, and calf leather were at times amplified by either sequins or lace, culminating in a delightfully minimalist collection. Models exuded an alluring, contemporary prowess in mini-dresses with glossy text, robust weaving, or decadent hues. Avante-garde garments with sculptural designs and proportions appeared as works of art in motion on the body, skirts that appeared to float and a myriad of hypnotic patterns experimented with the organic and the masterful. Surface elements like flowing lace and knowing argyle nodded to the brand’s majestic past, while skin-hugging dresses juxtaposed with oversized jackets unearthed its spirited future.
Simone Rocha Plays with a Symphony of Human Emotions
Courtesy of Simone Rocha.
Courtesy of Simone Rocha.
There is no such thing as a dull moment when basking in the splendor of Simone Rocha, and the Spring/Summer 2025 collection pulled out all the stops. A symphony of human emotions induced the fashion house’s latest show, allowing it to slowly and sensually come to fruition. Beginning with the carnation and its distinguished position within a man’s formal jacket, a chic and playful toying between masculine and feminine wants and desires ensued. A ballet-pink leotard—which covered the hands in eccentric fashion—displayed a shimmering edition of the flower down the torso, leading the eye to edgy tulle embellishments. Romantic tulle found its way onto sheer lingerie-inspired gowns, radiating from trench coats, or ballooning from cut-out sweaters. Diving draping, lush suiting, and a back-and-forth between the visible and the invisible caught our eyes and our hearts.
