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Rather than hold a large-scale fashion show at one of the opulent Paris Fashion Week venues, Jean Touitou, the creative director and founder of A.P.C., held three intimate presentations inside the label’s Rue Madame showroom. Touitou explained why he started the minimalist French label in 1987: he had lost a suitcase at the Barcelona airport, and he found that it was impossible to find the perfect right pair of jeans and the perfect Shetland sweater.
Touitou and his colleagues looked deep inside the D.N.A. of the brand, going through 27 years of images to find the inspiration for the fall/winter 2015 women’s collection. What they did was present six groups of women, three masculine, and three feminine, showcasing various themes like Madame Raw Denim, Marguerite Duras, and La Militante. A number of timeless basics appeared on the platform—cozy sweaters, perfect jeans, and simple wool coats. “Minimalism, please understand, is not something is easy to do,” Touitou told the audience. “The question is how to go to the very essence of a garment, how to work on the proportions of the fabric to make it look right.”
Touitou did explain that rather than showing skin, one’s personality should shine through. While the pieces showed very little skin, the modest dresses exuded a powerful sort of sexiness. Every wardrobe essential was covered, from a cozy navy turtleneck to a classic trench coat. The timeless, well thought-out pieces are the reason why Touitou has been able to build such a strong brand around chic, French basics, that has earned fans like Kanye West, who has collaborated with A.P.C., and Catherine Deneuve—both were spotted at the presentations—in its three decades.