Promenading down the historic hallways and staircases of the 19th-century Neo-Baroque opera hall, Palais Garnier, Chanel presented its 2024 haute couture collection for fall/winter 2024/25. Ambassadors and attendees filled the elegantly lit halls, including Kiera Knightley, Naomi Campbell, Greta Gerwig, Zhou Xun, Michelle Williams, Nile Rodgers, and Sadie Sink.
Chanel’s Lasting Commitment to the Opéra Shines Through
Chanel continued its legacy as a timeless maison that fuses its fashion creations with an appreciation for the arts, particularly dance. Palais Garnier was a further testament to this dedication: the maison is a proud Major Patron of the Opéra National de Paris, Patron of the Ballet de l’Opéra, and Patron of the institution’s dance season Opening Gala. The show’s set, designed by French writer and director Christophe Honoré, placed Chanel’s ensembles into the heart of Paris’ beloved performance space.

This year marks 100 years since eponymous founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel began designing costumes for the ballet company Ballets Russes. This passion followed a concrete path throughout the maison’s existence, as Chanel remains a supporter and patron for numerous international dance institutions and arts programming, from Paris to Sydney.
Chanel’s Elegant Couture Collection


“Gazes and putting oneself on display,” as described by the collection’s show notes, drove this year’s couture theme at the maison. Ensembles were meticulously crafted to be under the dazzling lights of the opéra, the protagonists of the show at center stage and the object of everyone’s attention. The collection’s palette was a panorama of sophistication blended with glistening theatrics. Black, gold, silver, and ivory graced the runway as the collection’s primary tones, interlaced with pops of fuchsia, pale pink, and celadon.


The show began with a spotlight on look one, worn by Vittoria Ceretti. The premier ensemble’s eye-catching elements consisted of a billowing black opera cape with a ruffled collar and layered edges that sailed above the floor: a vision of theatrical splendor.


The first look’s dramatic collar was one of many playful features in the collection that contributed to its allure, including feathers, tassels, cabochons, flowers, braids, velvet, tulle, taffeta, and satin.


Playing with their classic boucle tweed designs, the collection featured a series of suit skirt sets, box-pleated and delicately ornate with sequins, pearls, and crystals. The show presented 12 tweed suits overall, each with its own distinct shade and ornamental additions. Colors ranged from black and white to a bold violet. These tweed features within the collection highlight Chanel’s current melange of iconic style with an elevated haute couture eye.

Other silhouettes echoed the imagery of a ballerina on stage: a bell-shaped tutu skirt and layered tulle adorned with sequins were a playful and contemporary nod to Coco Chanel’s 19th-century costume work.


Patent leather accents put a unique spin on multiple ensembles, as the lustrous material reflected the Opéra’s shining lights.
Chanel’s Dramatic Bridal Couture Finale


This year’s Chanel bride glittered under a single stage spotlight as a vision of classic glamor. The ensemble featured voluminous layers, puffy sleeves, a lengthy train, and a bodice covered in white petals–each detail laced with grandeur. Her entrance summoned the final walkthrough, as all models gathered in the Palais Garnier’s central hall for an encore, of sorts.


The audience’s final applause in the opera house’s grand stairway honored and celebrated the maison‘s rich craftsmanship and sophisticated ensembles. This show marked Chanel’s first collection since Virginie Viard departed the house in early June. Chanel’s visit to Palais Garnier for their latest couture collection is instead a product of Chanel’s Fashion Creation Studio and its 150 contributors at the maison’s Parisian ateliers.