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Crisp, sophisticated silhouettes in signature Berluti style graced the runway in Paris for its fall/winter 2015 collection. Tailored sportswear featuring a favored jersey wardrobe made statements with luxe fabrics and casual proportions. Berluti’s coats, bombers, and jackets are shorter and boxier than in past seasons, utilizing an innovative folding technique to allow the sleeve to extend to the collar.
“The contrast between the sharpness of the silhouette, the comfort of the new-generation jersey and the lightness of the atelier’s construction represents the soul of the Berluti man for the coming autumn/winter season,” said Alessandro Sartori, Berluti’s artisic director.
Talcum-treated leather, laminated kangaroo skin, silk, velvet, tweed, dip-dyed and hand-woven cashmere, and a technical Japanese tricotene blended from cotton are just a few examples of the material makeup of the outerwear and suits.
Also making an introduction are two new leather bags, the Emio and Trois Nuit, which come in larger sizes to be carried by hand, and a smaller satchel to be worn across the body. Deconstructed weekend bags offer a lightweight version of Berluti’s Venezia leather. Even dried, leaf-pressed leather notebooks made an appearance in the collection.
New shoes include: the Alessio, a lightweight midsole and a sporty outsole; the reinvented two-tone golf shoe that now features a quilted, water-repellent leather; and side-lacing boots.
A rich, dark color palette of mineral elements used by Murano glass craftsmen can be found throughout. Colors of emerald green, sulphur yellow, amber brown, cobalt blue, coal black, zinc grey, and matte white are used in recreating this natural effect of mineral dust and glass-blown layered colors.