We’re lingering in the best of London Fashion Week, and spotlighting decadent fall/winter 2024 collection debuts by Aaron Esh, SRVC, Tolu Coker, Erdem, and Dunhill.
Aaron Esh Embraces Daily Dressing for the Burnished Streets of London
Courtesy of Aaron Esh.
Within the Sarabande Foundation, Aaron Esh enveloped guests in a visceral autumn/winter 2024 collection set to the rhythm of daily dressing for the burnished streets of London. An all-consuming palette of gray and black—with standout hints of beige and plum—offered a rich tone of self-assurance within the bustle of the city. An ode to the buoyancy of British youth played out in second-skin wool henley knits, slick cigarette jeans, and elusive beanies; veil-like hoodies decadently gave way to tuxedo satin collars and voluminous skirts.
The Aaron Esh protagonist toes the line between high and low with sparkling prowess, from donning gossamer chiffon dresses deftly cut on the bias for engaging evening soirées, to softening into sun-worn baseball caps and oversized sunglasses for a brand new day. Ravishing haute couture details embellished the sculptural shape of raglan sleeves and the seductive drapery of a myriad of garments. Savile-Row savoir-faire enhanced tiers of horsehair canvas, wool posing as fur and ponyskin, and leather virtuously recycled from past use by French luxury maisons.
SRVC Presents the Dynamic “Human Resource” Autumn/Winter 2024 Collection
Courtesy of SRVC.
“Human Resource” was the benevolent theme underpinning SRVC’s autumn/winter 2024 collection, equipping the goddess on the go with a functional meets fantastical modern wardrobe. Luxurious wool suiting in tempting shades of blue, plum, and black made a head-turning statement with robust shoulders, buttons placed perfectly off-center, nipped in at the waist; and surreal details—from cuffs echoing the tailoring of shoulders, to trouser hems reminiscent of shirt collars—placed the visionary heart of the working woman front and center. SRVC undeniably has her back, as seen in the ingenious moment crafted onto a wool coat that allows her to tuck her tresses safely inside while traversing the city on a mission or two.
Sensuous knitwear separates offered equally thoughtful dynamism for the weekend; high necklines morphed into masks, skirts proposed individualism with changeable lengths via adjustable buckles, and poplin dresses with discerning cut-outs accented skin and provoked joyous movement.
Tolu Coker’s “Broken English” Unveils Inspiration from a Pilgrimage through Ghana
Photo by Jason Lloyd Evans, courtesy of Tolu Coker.
British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker saturated the autumn/winter 2024 collection with inspiration born from a recent pilgrimage through Ghana. Titled “Broken English,” the latest ready-to-wear vision invoked the spirit of “Hawkers,” local vendors who utilize the roadside as their stage for selling a range of vital goods. Curvaceous shapes collaged with geometric patterns, and whimsical hats, evoked the Hawkers’ day-to-day life—weaving through the storm of extensive traffic in charismatic, often recycled, garments, nimbly carrying merchandise atop their heads.
Smoldering earthy hues radiated through the collection, reflecting the vivid sandy landscape, while denim blue, vivacious red and opulent tan lured the 1960s and ’70s sensibilities. An air of righteous collaboration was felt with eco-leathers of East London wholesaler GH Leathers, sustainable Prince of Wales check fabrics from Scottish-based Halley Stevensons, and the debut of shearling UGG heeled boots. Pleated ankle-length skirts paid homage to classic kaftans, while banana leaf bags shined light on the immense skill of Ghanaian artisans.
Erdem Dedicates the Autumn/Winter 2024 Collection to the Majesty of Maria Callas
Photo by Jason Lloyd Evans, courtesy of Erdem.
The enduring majesty of Maria Callas pulsed through the Erdem autumn/winter 2024 collection, imbuing the ebb and flow of divinity and tragedy in the star’s life on Earth into a procession of stirring looks. Hyper-focusing on the legend’s 1953 performance of Medea, notes of potent ecstasy and heartbreak were fashioned into angular opera coats, romantic pajama sets, and visually arresting cocktail dresses. Energized by designer Salvatore Fiumi’s bespoke costumes for Callas, a full-skirted dress in floral printed chine taffeta was hand painted in meditative indigo blue brushstrokes.
Brimming with texture and emotion, layers of mouliné houndstooth merino jacquard in scarf, cardigan, and button front skirt set the runway ablaze in gray and ruby red. A pencil dress with asymmetric cape sleeves was washed in an innocent saffron Rossini Rose print—made unforgettable in crushed organza cloqué. Knitted and brushed mohair lent passionate movement to a jacket and pencil skirt, further emphasized by ostrich feather framing in pure ballet pink; styled with an ivory floral crushed satin bralette, and coordinating heels, the look imparted the dramatic power of femininity from the stage to the street.
Best of London Fashion Week: Dunhill Dazzles at the National Portrait Gallery
Photo by Will Scarborough, courtesy of dunhill.
The National Portrait Gallery served as an endlessly elegant vessel for Dunhill’s autumn/winter 2024 collection. A ravishing debut by creative director Simon Holloway, 41 symphonic looks breathed effervescent new life into the storied brand’s 130-year legacy. Timeless British menswear codes sparked with vintage Hollywood glamor unfolded in dapper day and evening wear. Lavish shades of chocolate brown, toffee, and cream in knit twin sets and reversible driving jackets recalled the swagger of Frank Sinatra, while two and three-piece suiting and topcoats conjured the verve of Truman Capote.
Absolute respect was paid to impeccable English tailoring in gabardine chinos, pleated flannel Gurkha trousers, and wool-and-cotton denim five-pocket pants, ensuring the Dunhill gentleman always looks the part; the toffee nappa leather car trench paired with black calf brogue shoes flies him to the moon and back, and the rust velvet single breasted dinner jacket deems him unforgettable.
