From the featherweight formalwear of Brioni to Prada’s dreamy simplicity, and SEASE’s tennis club takeover to Tod’s crisp uniformity, Milan proved that style in 2025 is less about performance and more about presence.
Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS26 reasserted the Italian capital as a global standard-bearer for elegance in motion. Designers leaned into restraint, fabric innovation, and storytelling—crafting menswear that felt sensual, smart, and fully integrated with the way men live now.
Brioni — The Lightness of Being
Courtesy of Brioni.
Courtesy of Brioni.
Brioni continued to refine the language of modern formalwear with ultra-light tailoring and silk suiting that felt almost imperceptible. Hues of ivory, dust blue, and mineral grey swept through a lineup that focused on natural fibers, relaxed double-breasted silhouettes, and easy layering. Known for dressing cinematic icons, the Roman house brought a renewed fluidity to its rigorous construction—bridging tradition and discretion with confidence.
Brioni’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection embodies effortless elegance, defined by softness, subtlety, and masterful tailoring. Designed by Norbert Stumpfl with the wearer in mind, garments transition seamlessly from day to night, business to leisure, through a palette of sun-faded naturals and rich neutrals. The standout Soffio jacket, crafted with near-weightless precision, anchors a wardrobe of fluid shirt-jackets, trench coats, and relaxed suiting. Volumes are generous yet closely cut, revealing the body through gossamer layers. From poetic suede outerwear to soft sandals and loafers, every piece reflects the Brioni signature nonchalance—Italian sophistication expressed with quiet confidence and lived best outdoors, in light and ease.
Brunello Cucinelli — Sprezzatura Refined
Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
Brunello Cucinelli’s Spring/Summer 2026 was a manifesto of soft power: relaxed jackets in wool and silk, coral linen suits, and airy shirting that floated off the body. The color palette emphasized warm neutrals punctuated by Mediterranean reds and blues—framing a lifestyle of movement, quality, and grace.
A radiant redefinition of masculine elegance, The Shape of Light blends fluid silhouettes with sartorial precision to create a wardrobe of refined ease. Inspired by early ’90s grace, the collection moves seamlessly between formal and informal, structure and spontaneity. Vibrant hues—apricot, coral, royal blue—illuminate flowing fabrics of wool, silk, and linen, while tailoring softens: longer blazers, relaxed trousers, and deconstructed eveningwear radiate understated confidence. From gossamer outerwear to featherlight knits and supple leathers, everything is crafted for comfort, movement, and presence. This is Cucinelli’s vision of modern manhood: cultured, luminous, and effortlessly composed.
Prada — Stripped-Back Surrealism
Courtesy of Prada.
Courtesy of Prada.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons leaned into what they called instinct and ease. At the Fondazione’s bare Deposito space, micro shorts, wave-printed shirting, and airy knits conjured a seaside dreamscape. The show felt fluid, personal, and stripped of conceptual weight—inviting calm clarity in a chaotic world.
Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show, titled A Change of Tone, embraced a poetic shift in attitude—one of freedom, fluidity, and elemental ease. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that dismantled conventions, stripping away power codes in favor of instinct and imagination. Silhouettes felt weightless and unbound, inspired by land, air, and sun-drenched daydreams. Through non-conformist harmonies and unexpected textures, the collection evoked fleeting moments—“the last swim,” “lover’s lake”—offering a sensual, emotional take on menswear. It was fashion as sensation: minimal yet expressive, structured yet soft, grounded in nature but reaching toward the imaginary.
SEASE — The Tennis Kit Experience
Courtesy of SEASE.
SEASE made a major impression by transforming the courtyard of Portrait Milano into a working tennis court for the launch of its Tennis_Kit capsule. With Feliciano López fronting the campaign and a pop-up at Antonia, SEASE brought performance tailoring to leisurewear—merging Solaro fabrics, merino blends, and Dyneema® accessories into a lifestyle vision that radiated sprezzatura and sport.
SEASE made a stylish splash at Milan Fashion Week Men’s with the launch of its Tennis_KIT capsule, transforming Portrait Milano into a full-size urban tennis court. The collection blends performance and elegance, drawing inspiration from tennis tradition while embracing modern lifestyle needs. With natural materials like merino wool, hemp, and linen, the capsule includes refined, functional looks for court and resort wear—anchored by standout accessories like artisanal tennis bags. Spanish tennis icon Feliciano López fronts the campaign, embodying the spirit of sport and sophistication. Available via a pop-up at Antonia and online, the Tennis_KIT serves elegance with every match point.
Tod’s — Crisp, Classic, Contemporary
Courtesy of Tod’s.
Courtesy of Tod’s.
Tod’s delivered unfussy, high-quality essentials in neutral palettes—taupe, chalk, leather brown—emphasizing leather outerwear, soft suiting, and handcrafted loafers. The collection quietly reinforced the brand’s place in the wardrobe of the modern Italian man.
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2026 men’s collection celebrates the iconic Gommino shoe with Gommino Club—a stylish, relaxed presentation at Villa Necchi Campiglio. Creative Director Matteo Tamburini introduces a wardrobe inspired by leisure and Italian elegance, with fluid silhouettes, unstructured tailoring, and elevated materials like ultra-soft Pashmy leather and breezy linen blends. Key pieces include safari jackets, cropped T-Field outerwear, and effortlessly chic trousers in newly developed Travel-wool. The Gommino appears across bubble soles, loafers, slippers, and sneakers—highlighted by the Red Dot edition merging tech with craftsmanship. Accessories like the Di Bag Folio tote and Greca Belt complete the refined yet casual lifestyle offering.
Bally — Chic Utility
Courtesy of Bally.
Courtesy of Bally.
At Bally, sleek technical tailoring met Alpine references in earthy palettes. Leather trenches, ribbed polos, and tonal suiting hinted at the new urban traveler: mobile, stylish, unencumbered.
Bally revisits its rich sports heritage with the launch of the Ballysport Tennis Collection, reissuing the iconic Competition sneaker famously worn by Swiss champions Jakob Hlasek and Marc Rosset during their 1992 French Open victory. Rooted in performance and refined craftsmanship, the collection blends archival spirit with modern design. Presented in crisp whites with accents of red, green, and navy, the line includes relaxed tailoring, elevated knitwear, and retro-inspired accessories. Clean lines, bold BALLY Ribbon details, and a touch of ’80s flair define the aesthetic. It’s a tribute to timeless Swiss sophistication—sporty, stylish, and designed for today’s court and beyond.
