New York Fashion Week Debuts by Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu, and More
As the best and the brightest debut at New York Fashion Week, Whitewall is sharing must-see shows by Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu, Studio 189, Khaite, and Advisry.
Prabal Gurung Brings East and West Together for an Inspired SS 24 Collection
At the majestic Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park, Prabal Gurung offered an enlightened and visionary Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Titled “West Meets East,” the ravishing show was deeply inspired by his family’s immigration to New York in the 1980s, as well as the designer’s own journeys through India and Nepal. In a progressive collaging of traditions, histories, and fresh outlooks, Gurung conceptualized a runway of powerful style and elegance. Sari-like silhouettes, patterns evoking Indian woodblock designs, and elusive floral prints flowed seamlessly between skirts, blouses, jackets, and dresses. Luxurious hand draping on delicate, leather sarong skirts and cot silk dhoti pants celebrated the timeless allure of Indian craftsmanship. Vibrant looks such as a linen drop waist dress in marigold, a pleated lamé dress in oxidized gold, and a butterfly bustier mini-dress in soft blush embellished Gurung’s passionate message of warmth and unity.
Courtesy of Jason Wu.
Jason Wu’s Rejoices in the Solstice at Isamu Noguchi’s Sunken Garden for NYFW
Jason Wu’s rapturous Spring/Summer 2024 collection fully embraced the theme of “solstice.” Held at Isamu Noguchi’s exquisite Sunken Garden in the Financial District, the designer’s latest presentation explored the pinnacle of nature’s artistry and grandeur. Highly textural dresses in vibrant, earthy shades brought to mind the sights and sensations of mother nature’s opus. A sheer, ankle grazing slip dress waved across the body like a shimmering stream, while sculptural texture reminiscent of moss graced gowns, zip-up jackets, and mini skirts in potent green. Illustrations of organic forms and figures unfolded on raw-edged shirts, trench-coats, and off-the-shoulder jackets. A sleeveless cream dress was seductively jagged and undone in texture and design, paralleling softened rocks and silken sand. Sky blue made an angelic appearance in frothy slip dresses and molded jean jackets, while rich crimson held the spotlight in mystical imagery atop knee-length shirts and long, pleated skirts.
Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Studio 189.
Studio 189 Celebrates a Decade of Evolution with the SS 24 Collection
Studio One Eighty Nine ushers in a new era where style harmoniously meets sustainability, as deftly unveiled in its latest Spring/Summer 2024 collection: “Evolution”. Co-founded by luxury executive Abrima Erwiah and actress Rosario Dawson in 2013, the brand combines meaningful African-inspired patterns, color, and design in the form of men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel and accessories. Made in Africa, utilizing time-honored techniques of Kente weaving, indigo dyeing, and hand-batik, every piece of the collection represents stunning traditions of African artistry. New, sensuous silhouettes in the form of cropped jackets, bandeau tops, and mini-skirts revealed sleek skin for balmy days and nights. Rich earth tones and electric hues of purple, blue, and green were both grounding and exhilarating in relaxed dresses, caftans, and avante-garde suits. Noteworthy patterns, such as the “The Crossroads Print,” elevated diamond shapes as fierce symbols of safety against domestic abuse. As a recent winner of the CFDA Lexus Fashion Initiative for Sustainability, Studio One Eighty Nine raised a toast to a monumental decade paving the way to a glowing future in fashion.
Photo by Hanna Tveite, Courtesy of Khaite.
Khaite Presents an Elusive Masterpiece at New York Fashion Week
“Dark of Light” epitomizes Khaite’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, unveiled at the ceremonious Park Avenue Armory. In an expert blending of sultry materials, silhouettes, and shades, Founder and Creative Director Catherine Holstein presented a cinematic show of complex moods and moments. Fine knitwear caressed the body in a luxurious Italian “eyelash” blend of silk and cashmere, viscose gowns draped like liquid, while chiffon and organza provided hypnotic dimension and drama. Expansive shapes were introduced in the powerful shoulders and lapels of jackets, further intensified in lavish black leather and topstitched khaki twill. Singular leather garments in toasted taupe, toffee brown, and flame red, gave way to a succession of ruching and elongated fringe. Cutting-edge accessories, such as mesmeric cuffs, belts, and the Dakota duffel bag in sleek suede and python-embossed leather, brought the cavernous depths of passion and illusion straight to the runway.
Photo by Fujio Emura, courtesy of Advisry.
Advisry Unveils its 10th Season of Artistic Exploration at NYFW
Advisry reveled in 10 seasons of inspiration and evolution for its pivotal Spring/Summer 2024 show. Since 2014, designer and founder Keith Herron has presented divine works of artistic exploration and mastery, energized by the past, present, and future. This season, themes surrounding the introduction of Technicolor to cinema, “Altered Americana,” and the labyrinthine game of chess provided fertile ground for the designer’s latest presentation in New York. Fantastical elements were collaged with streetwear and romantic suiting for a Wizard of Oz-like journey. Opening in black-and-white, relaxed leather jackets, deconstructed suits with jeweled flourishes, and otherworldly dresses made a theatrical entrance. Color slowly emerged in the ruby red of a cropped tweed jacket, a glittering, blue-checkered button-up shirt, and an oversized red, orange, and cream varsity sweater. Jeans and long khaki skirts exposed plaid boxer shorts emblazoned with the house’s label, while jackets and gowns in tenacious, geometric shapes challenged our expectations and broadened our horizons.
