Paris Fashion Week Debuts by Isabel Marant, Coperni, and More
As Paris Fashion Week continues, Whitewall brings you awe-inspiring presentations for Spring/Summer 2024 from Balmain, Chloé, Isabel Marant, Lanvin, and Coperni.
Courtesy of Balmain.
Balmain Presents an Ode to the Rose at Paris Fashion Week
Balmain’s Creative Director Olivier Rousteing unveiled a multi-dimensional Spring/Summer 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Deeply energized by American visionary Gertrude Stein’s celebrated quote, “A rose is a rose is a rose is a rose,” Rousteing embraced every facet of the revered flower for a complex study on beauty and the feminine form. Drawing from founder Pierre Balmain’s archival couture designs of the late 1940s and early 1950s, the latest collection juxtaposed curvaceous shapes with rigorous tailoring, as well as the maison’s signature polka dot motif with sumptuous floral prints. Vibrant, sculptural rose embellishments in a diverse array of materials such as latex, porcelain, leather, and recycled plastic bottles made their way across jackets, dresses, footwear, and handbags as a contemporary ode to the enduring symbol of love and passion. Inspired by the flower’s inherent duality, joyful garments in the form of a peach babydoll dress, a baby blue and blush-hued corset top, and an embroidered green romper were spotted on the runway alongside darkly ravishing pieces—a thorn-covered mini-dress, a glittering cage-like ensemble, and a dynamic deep-V jacket.
Photo by Carlo Scarpato, courtesy of Chloé.
Chloé Champions an Elevated Consciousness for Environmental Action
A new consciousness was the resounding theme of Chloé’s symphonic Spring Summer 2024 collection. Creative Director Gabriela Hearst’s past three collections unfolded as a stunning narrative on sound solutions to our contemporary environmental crisis: regeneration for Fall/Winter 2022, clean energy for Spring/Summer 2023, and female leadership for Fall/Winter 2023. The consciousness of the individual heart and mind towards monumental change was evoked in shapes, patterns, and textures reminiscent of flora and fauna. The elegant curves of the calla lily were seen in a chic wrap skirt, a plongé leather dress, and on the asymmetrical zippers of an elongated leather jacket. The hypnotic geometry of mother nature was evident in a strapless ottoman knit dress, culminating in a root-like myriad of wool and sequins, as well as in the winged design of a textured linen dress, accented with golden metal petals. Chloe’s long-standing dedication to positive social impact was displayed in a succession of partnerships, from a 15-year union with Akanjo, a Madagascar-based World Fair Trade Organization that manufactured elements of the collection, to a decade-long connection with Kenya-based Mifuko, a collective of 1300 women artisans who skillfully craft the house’s coveted Woody baskets.
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Isabel Marant.
Isabel Marant Brings Celestial Lightness to Paris Fashion Week
Within the shimmering Palais du Royal gardens, Isabel Marant debuted a richly decorative Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Art Nouveau lines and luster were seen on body-skimming dresses, leotards, and off-the-shoulder tops, spotlighting decadent moments of lace, leather, and embroidery. Miniscule shorts were paired with towering wedge clogs and gold thread sweaters in organic constellation patterns for edgy yet ethereal day looks. Billowing parachute designs in black or white with simple stud details appeared soft, sensual, and thoroughly modern on the dramatic runway. Music composed by Kazu Makino, and reimagined by Blonde Redhead, infused the show with an otherworldly atmosphere. Unforgettable evening wear included a radiant crimson slip dress, a cobalt blue bandeau dress of mesmeric, undulating fabric, and a black fringed top paired with skin-tight trousers that glittered like the depths of the galaxy.
Courtesy of LANVIN.
Lanvin Unveils an Inspired Homage to its Founder for Summer 2024
Lanvin presented an enlightened Summer 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week in divine homage to the exquisite savoir-faire of its founder Jeanne Lanvin. Inspired by the bold theatrical photography of Guy Bourdin from the house’s advertising archives, as well as fundamental designs of the Lanvin atelier from the 1920s and ‘30s, the new warm weather collection upheld an illustrious history of precise technique and tailoring, collaging feminine and masculine codes for “the ultimate chic”—the maison’s latest mantra. Evolving over the three key chapters of tailored daywear, social and cocktail attire, and formal evening wear, Lanvin arrived at the majestic peak of cutting-edge French style and spirit. Opulent suiting was enhanced by luxuriously long trousers, striking metallic buttons, or fringe-like sequined embroidery. A blush-colored gossamer dress was emboldened with geometric details and sleek black opera gloves, while a pale violet mesh gown with gray lace detailing was paired with dramatic blue leather evening gloves.
Courtesy of Coperni.
Coperni Debuts an Enriching, Sonic Collection at Paris Fashion Week
“Forms of Attunement” was the overarching theme for Coperni’s captivating Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Drawing from the astounding evolution of communication, beginning in the ancient world and pausing in our modern universe, the house explored the power of sound as a mode of gracious connection and fierce expression. Models wore sheer, fluid dresses, and brilliantly deconstructed garments, strutting through an acoustic chamber at the renowned Institute for Research and Coordination in Acoustics and Music (IRCAM). Electronic musician u.r.trax, a treasured friend of the brand, composed a scintillating track for the show during a 6-month residency at IRCAM. Surreal sounds of the collection, from the crinkling of sequins to the whisper of organza, were woven directly into the dynamic soundscape. Sculptural dresses and tracksuits with geometric cutouts and floral embellishments were shown alongside skillfully tailored and ruffled denim. Potent suiting and leather jackets housed the latest technologies: embedded speakers, “cymatic” patterns and brooches, and a leading-edge AI pin developed by Humane for a new era of intuitive connection.
