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Best of Paris Fashion Week: Design Fluidity for SS24

Erica Silverman

4 October 2023

Paris Fashion Week Debuts by Ann Demeulemeester, Casablanca, and More

As Paris Fashion Week sets the historic city aglow, and Whitewall is transporting you to the beguiling runway shows of Ann Demeulemeester, Akris, Hermès, Casablanca, and Sacai

Ann Demeulemeester fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2024 Ready To Wear Fashion Wee

Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti, courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester.

Ann Demeulemeester Embraces Fluidity at Paris Fashion Week

An unequivocal embracement of fluidity was at the heart of Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation for Paris Fashion Week. Layers of fabric—opaque, transparent, and dematerialized—hid or revealed the body in a sensual rhythm, both in ownership of identity and in celebration of its transience. Shades of ebony, charcoal, cobalt, and white reflected and absorbed light. Gauzy dresses, skirts, and tops were burnished with hazy, abstract prints like paint forcefully splashed across a canvas. Leather harnesses with floor-grazing straps intimately supported the torso, worn effectively over polished suits. The motif repeated in robust belts around waists, biceps, and wrists. Silver chain details were visible over and under each look, gliding around the neck, free-falling to the knee, and winding between the fingers. Oversized white shirts, skirts with thigh-high slits, and asymmetrical suit jackets played with the concept of uniforms, ebbing and flowing between utility and limitless experimentation.

Akris SS24

Photo by Daniele Oberrauch, courtesy of Akris.

Akris Celebrates the Fantasy of Felice “Lizzi” Rix-Ueno for Spring/Summer 2024

Akris Creative Director Albert Kriemler rejoiced in the poetic fantasy of the legendary Austrian textile and craft designer Felice “Lizzi” Rix-Ueno for the Spring Summer 2024 collection. Lizzi’s early 20th-century works, spirited and colorful celebrations of the individual imagination, formed the basis for Kriemler’s feminine and fanciful new looks. Chic poppy prints blossomed on silk crêpre blouses, cotton silk high-waisted cargo pants, and an embroidered jacket with patch pockets. A whimsical, multi-patterned bird was printed across a poplin pleated shirt dress, while geometric grids flowed as watercolors across airy dresses, blouses, and straight-leg pants. Sophisticated works of art unfurled with luxurious ensembles in Nappa leather such as the tawny-hued cropped jacket and pleated shorts, the cuffed tank dress, and the silver metallic shirt jacket and skirt with trapezoid side slits. Embroidered poppy silk organza appliques floated across a tulle mini dress in tranquil harmony, grounded with stylish black ankle boots for transcendent perfection. 

Hermès SS24

Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Hermès.

Hermès Presents a Spring Awakening at Paris Fashion Week 

Hermès evoked the dreaminess of a day spent basking in mother nature’s beauty with the Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Rich shades of ivory, burgundy, raspberry, and onyx appeared both polished and earthy, inspiring a freedom of movement and spirit alike. Graceful peacoats, H cashmere and silk coats, and trench coats were worn dynamically over silk knit miniskirts, sporty bodysuits, and silk twill trousers, proving the most compelling narratives arise from bold juxtapositions, just as nature intended. Skillfully crafted leather skirts, dresses, and cropped tanks, enhanced with pleasing, organic patterns, followed the soft lines of the body, allowing wind and warmth to caress the skin at distinct intervals. Sheer patterned garments followed the forms of the land in trance-inducing designs, while plaid shirt jackets with high-waisted shorts, trimmed in buttery leather, were reminiscent of the joy felt immersing oneself in hearth and home. 

Casablanca SS24

Photo by Isidore Montag, courtesy of Casablanca.

Casablanca Unveils a Beacon of Hope and Prosperity for Nigeria 

The exuberant pulse of Nigeria’s rich history and youth-centric movements provided fertile ground for Casablancas joyful Spring/Summer 2024 collection, aptly titled “Day of Victory.” Models glided down a sunset-hued runway in effervescent day and evening looks, from graphic tracksuits and jumpsuits in bold patterns, to dazzling evening dresses in gradient shades of pink, orange, yellow, and green. Creative Director Charaf Tajer imagined colorful swimwear was juxtaposed with baggy shorts, dynamic blouses, and cropped sweaters highlighting the hypnotic patterns of African art. Finely tailored suits were offered in luminous materials with charming heart-shaped patterns, imparting a spirited ‘70s sensibility. A billowing blouse printed with a bustling and sun-soaked city scene was paired with elegant ivory pants and an eye-catching tropical pendant. Standout garments, such as a patent leather apron top with an interlocking heart design, and a short-sleeved button-down shirt with a jubilant musical print, championed a bright and prosperous future for Nigeria. 

Sacai_SS2024

Courtesy of Sacai.

Sacai Debuts Elegant New Takes on Dressing for Spring/Summer 2024

Sacai founder and designer Chitose Abe revealed a charismatic Spring/Summer 2024 collection that explored compelling new ways of dressing and presenting oneself to an ever-changing world. Highly technical garments wore a guise of simplicity, as the house’s trademark camisoles and slip dresses were brilliantly attached to shirts and outerwear, producing both innovative and sculptural looks. Elegantly rounded shapes, seen in a cropped fair isle sweater, a shortened blouse with voluminous sleeves, and an expertly tailored shirt jacket with matching shorts, enveloped models in visionary cocoons. A bevy of jackets and dresses with unexpected slashes and asymmetrical details presented new takes on classic designs, allowing the skin to peek through in seductive intervals. Delicate floral patterns and stunning pinstripes were juxtaposed with airy, transparent fabrics and opulent denim, layered with statement chain necklaces, imparting fluid and uncompromising takes on contemporary femininity. 

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Poetic set designs underpinned the fall/winter 2024 collections by Saint Laurent, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Chanel, and more.
Whitewall takes you to the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 men's fashion show in Paris, Pharrell Williams's first show for the brand.
The best of Paris Fashion Week collections from Acne Studios, Courrèges, Dries van Noten, Peter Do, and ROCHAS.

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