Paris Men’s Fashion Week is in full swing, and Whitewall is bringing you front row for the dazzling Fall/Winter 2024/25 presentations from Berluti, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, and Issey Miyake.
Berluti Fully Embraced its Own Lush Iconography at Paris Men’s Fashion Week
Courtesy of Berluti.
Berluti fully embraced its own lush iconography as an act of pure individualism for the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Two momentous chapters: The Fall Proposal and the Winter Wardrobe, offered innovative takes on classic wardrobe staples. Vivacious fall looks included a denim-cut suede jacket in harvest orange, while featherweight suede blousons were seen in a lively blue. Knit tracksuits manifested as the ultimate luxury in silk and wool, juxtaposed with graphic logo t-shirts highlighting artistic embroidery. Icy grays, blues, and greens saturated the mesmeric Winter Wardrobe. Wool parkas and down jackets were in perfect harmony with the brand’s storied craftsmanship and cutting-edge performance, boasting sumptuous design details of leather and greige herringbone. A stunning array of derbies, slippers, boots, and oxfords debut options for mix-and-match stitching—the pinnacle of elegant, individual expression, Berluti style.
Acne Studios with Musician Yves Tumor is a Match Made in Heaven for Fall/Winter 2024
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson was deeply inspired by the poignant creative rebellion of American musician Yves Tumor for the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The artist’s kaleidoscopic spirit, energy, and vision, proved a match made in heaven for the brand’s explosive homage to Denim culture. Onyx tones set the dramatic scene for a vibrant palette of neon purple, pink, orange, and green, with luscious pastels and blush hues integrated for just a hint of sweetness. A myriad of proportions allowed for fluidity of movement and style. Tank tops were worn as a second skin, while shearling jackets were sleekly cropped, and denim was luxuriously baggy. Nimble layering was encouraged by way of effortless and sporty ski looks. The delicate and the robust worked hand-in-hand, with fierce biker leathers and denim juxtaposed with cloud-like voile faux fur. Prints of angelic flower photography uplifted a treasured collaboration with Carlijin Jacobs, with camouflage, tartan, and cyber psychedelic imagery illuminated the heart and soul of the authentic Acne rebel.
New Perspectives on Refinement Ruled the Dries Van Noten Runway
Courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
A new perspective on refinement ruled the Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2024/25 runway, bringing the organic, the uncomplicated, and the chic together in contemporary unison. Respect for the maison’s illustrious past was fused with its boundless future as evident in the gracious silhouettes of long coats, sweeping cargo trousers, and billowing knitwear. Artfully tied and side-zipped sweaters, elongated gloves, and contorted shirts unveiled the spectacular marriage of immaculate tailoring and deconstruction in design. Stately heritage fabrics from durable military materials and renowned English mills were shown with a revisioning of the British waxed jacket. Fabrics appeared softened, as if worn with daily adoration, and shades of pink, coral, cocoa, and moss swept us into a modern lullaby of pure charisma.
Best of Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Rick Owens’ Latest Creations Unfold Within the Majesty of His Own Home
Model on the catwalk at the Rick Owens fashion show in Paris, Fall Winter 2024 Menswear Fashion Week
Photos by Valerio Mezzanotti
Rick Owens presented the tremendous Fall/Winter 2024 collection within the majesty and protection of his own home and work compound—the original site of the preeminent maison 25 years ago. The latest creations were conceived In passionate response to the collective brutalities felt across our modern world, energized with the shimmering spirit of hope and optimism. Soulful collaborations were spotted at every turn, from inflated rubber pull-on stretch boots created with designer Straytukay, to Kiss Boots produced by designer Leo Prothman, to jackets and pants of recycled bicycle tires by rubber specialist and Paris-based BDSM community member Matisse Di Maggio. Garments were otherworldly—and proportions at times monstrous—in pure response to the inhumanity that unfolds every day before our very eyes. Knit space suits were alluring in merino, alpaca, and recycled cashmere, while shag-like jumpsuits and capes of dense felt and alpaca fibers were ushers into a dreamlike utopia of care and community.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Was “Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity ” at Palais de Tokyo
Courtesy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.
“Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity ” was the bountiful theme of the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2024/25 collection. Within the ravishing Palais de Tokyo, an inspired partnership with artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec saw the visionary’s drawings blossoming across ethereal new looks from the maison. Delicate pleated fabrics with vast white space highlighted Bouroullec’s poetic brushstrokes and mesmeric use of color, while lyrical scarves knit with multi-hued yarn were enhanced with thoughtful gaps for experimental wearing. The awe-inspiring Drawing Coats and poncho iterations were embellished with elements of the artist’s iconic paintings, producing sensuous and wearable works of art. The Bille Cushion Coat offered a large patch pocket which the garment itself may be easily folded into—in turn creating a wondrous and usable cushion. All Over Pleats uplifted Bouroullec’s “ALL OVER” works, juxtaposing hypnotic linear patterns and draped fabrics for avante-garde and expressive, head-to-toe protection from sunrise to sunset.
