This year’s Viktor & Rolf spring/summer 2015 collection was hosted at the Dutch ambassador’s house in Paris, a sumptuous location that added a touch of ancient glamour to the show. The show began with models moving down the mansion staircase, giving them more than a hint of the regal. It was a surprise to witness the opening looks as a number of the more experimental items appeared first.
The collection derived a share of its inspiration from sportswear. Cycling shorts and tracksuit pants, combined with couture tops, created a tantalizing paradox of glamorous grunge. This deliberate mismatching took hold as it evolved into various degrees of harmonious interaction. At times, the 3D floral patterns of the crinkle print tops appeared on the fabric of the cycling shorts, making them look decidedly sweet and enticing rather than merely sporty; both bucolic and urban at once.
The floral dresses were particularly winsome, being roomy and angular in places, taken in and puckered in others. The outlines of the dresses provided asymmetrical imitations of the petals displayed in the floral printing. The influence of abstract art in the blossoming shapes was tangible from start to finish. Heavily outlined in black, the floral printing added the somewhat mesmerizing effect achieved by stained-glass windows.
