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The backdrop design for the Viktor & Rolf fall/winter 2014-15 show was a nest of knitted roads; the runway was a lamp-lit street. Joan as Policeman singing a soothingly slow version of “Highway to Hell” gracefully enhanced the gentle evening melancholia of this setting. The first silhouettes appeared as light-grey as the road itself, a dress or two meandering down the front to a tapered tip.
Asymmetrical touches here and there were radical, on one occasion revealing the merest lunula of hip skin on one side, a strip of ankle skin on the other. The most surprising items in the first sequence were the trompe-l’oeil outfits, simulating multiple layers and enlarged impressions of silver-grey cable-knit. The flattening effect of illusionary layering was wisely relieved at times by lengthy boiled wool coats textured further by strands of chunky raised-surface cable-knit.
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Lighter white and blue tones were gradually phased in towards the end of the lineup, culminating in a dazzling watered sky-blue dress surmounted by a cloud-grey choker. Out of the flash of sky-colored garments came a burst of salmon peach cable-knits and flower prints, the floral patterning toying with the recurrent v-neck inspiration, spilling organically over its frame. The collection is both original and subtle, ensuring that the wearability of this chic urban autumnal collection remains high.
Go inside the worlds of art, fashion, design, and lifestyle.