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Derrick Adams: Patrick Kelly, The Journey

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Rochas Homme's SS20 menswear collection.
Rochas Homme's SS20 menswear collection.
Rochas Homme's SS20 menswear collection.
Pierre Hardy's SS20 menswear collection.
Pierre Hardy's SS20 menswear collection.
Pierre Hardy's SS20 menswear collection.
Byredo's SS20 menswear collection.
Byredo's SS20 menswear collection.
Byredo's SS20 menswear collection.
Fashion

PFW Men’s SS20: Byredo, Pierre Hardy, and Rochas

By Pearl Fontaine

June 25, 2019

Concluding our coverage of the Spring/Summer 2020 designs revealed in Paris last week, we’ve included our favorite details from the menswear collections presented by Byredo, Pierre Hardy, and Rochas.

Inside Paris’ Marais sports hall, the staging of a mock NBA draft set the scene for Byredo’s new concept, Byproduct. The setting was inspired by creative director Ben Gorham’s first career path, when he pursued basketball until his mid-twenties. Taking note of NBA player style in the early 2000s, the collection included 10 unique suits created with the help of bespoke tailor A.W. Bauer & Co., constructed to accommodate the typical build of a basketball player—towering height and ultra-long limbs and torso. They featured a boxy silhouette with long blazers, and long, wide trousers in colors like beige, gray, white, and blue. Also included was a series of patchwork high top sneakers—an homage to the original basketball shoes—created using leftover leather fragments from the creation of the Byproduct handbags.

Ideal for the summer traveler, Pierre Hardy debuted a 19-piece collection of architectural and ergonomic footwear for Spring/Summer 2020. Points of influences included the sun, the beach, and the aesthetics of eastern countries, offering a range of styles suitable for nearly any destination. While the Nil sandals (a minimal leather shoe available in white, bronze, or stripes) were essential for hot weather and the beach, one might prefer the classic black Park Avenue boot for an evening jaunt through the city. The two-toned Hardy loafers could complete any look, be it casual or dressy, and the Vibe sneaker—a harmony of beige and white tones with a curved wave design—was equal parts comfort and conversation starters. Other styles included the Bivouac sandal, which crossed an anatomical suede bottom with a sporty strap, a new take on the Slider, and (our favorite) the Canyon sneaker with gray, beige, and red details.

Continuing to expand on the identity of the Rochas wearer, the brand has created a collection for Spring/Summer 2020 that catered to the urban creator who finds inspiration in the energy of his surroundings. It upheld a certain softness in all aspects—easy lines, fluid volumes, and a scenic palette of colors like mossy green, mustard yellow, and cloudy blue. Uncomplicated, yet unconventional, pieces were meant for mixing and matching, enabling the wearer to create a versatile, personalized wardrobe that can be pieced together in any way he sees fit—seen in looks like a striped trouser worn with a loose, open shirt in the palest green, and a boxy three-button vest; and a tie-dyed shirt and white pants, paired with a plaid overcoat and blue espadrilles.

Ben GorhamByredoParis Fashion WeekPierre HardyRochas

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