Phoebe Philo focused on utility, function, and comfort for the fall/winter 2017 Celine collection. The setting for the show in Paris was designed in collaboration with artist Philippe Parreno. A persistent, anxiety-inducing hum spread throughout the room before it began, and then when it did, audience members were spun on turntables as spotlit models walked round in a puzzling pattern.
In contrast to that disorientation was a collection full of wearable garments for a women’s work wardrobe. There were raincoats, long tuxedo jackets, wide-cut three-button suit jackets, and oversized buttoned-up collars. Moments of pattern, feminine fringe, and a textured apron of sorts in the final look still felt restrained. Accessories included over the shoulder large nylon totes and what looked like military surplus blankets thrown over the forearm.
Celine fall/winter 2017
