Phoebe Philo focused on utility, function, and comfort for the fall/winter 2017 Celine collection. The setting for the show in Paris was designed in collaboration with artist Philippe Parreno. A persistent, anxiety-inducing hum spread throughout the room before it began, and then when it did, audience members were spun on turntables as spotlit models walked round in a puzzling pattern.
In contrast to that disorientation was a collection full of wearable garments for a women’s work wardrobe. There were raincoats, long tuxedo jackets, wide-cut three-button suit jackets, and oversized buttoned-up collars. Moments of pattern, feminine fringe, and a textured apron of sorts in the final look still felt restrained. Accessories included over the shoulder large nylon totes and what looked like military surplus blankets thrown over the forearm.