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Fashion

Chanel Channels the Influential and Joyful Camellia Flower

By Eliza Jordan

March 7, 2023

This morning in Paris, Chanel revealed its Fall/Winter 2023 collection inspired by its storied tie to the camellia flower. “The camellia is more than a theme; it’s an eternal code of the house,” said the maison's Creative Director, Virginie Viard. "I find it reassuring and familiar. I like its softness and its strength."

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Throughout the new ready-to-wear line, the white winter flower added an undeniably joyful touch to jackets, dresses, and even shorts, romantically blooming from pockets and utilized as patterns. Garments embodied detail, flare, and individuality—like asymmetrical coats, dresses with slits, Bermuda short suits, skirts, and low-back dresses adorned with embroidered beads and sequins in the bohemian palette of black, white, and pink. Inspiration was found in female artists, too, taking shape in details like strong peak lapels, floral coats, and men's jackets.

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As pleasing as the collection was to the eye, Viard noted that she wanted its effect to be seen in motion. “The energy of the merry-go-round of wooden horses that provides the setting for Inez & Vinoodh’s film, with actress Nana Komatsu as the heroine, gave me the idea for the Bermuda shorts suits and the asymmetries,” she said.

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At the show, models circled a towering red camellia flower, whimsical in movement as they drifted by in flowy dresses and flouncy skirts. Belts dotted by small florals were seen hugging waistlines; boots and a sleeveless dress bearing the same flower-stippled pattern were paired with chunky necklaces, earrings, and bracelets; and lace tights and gloves were seen under several layered outfits made of tweed, feathers, and leather.

“The faded colors, the dusky pink, the crafted pieces, the touches of 1960s and '70s, a certain English vibe, the comfortable, enveloping coats, the authentic materials...make the collections more real, and more charming, too," Viard said.

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ChanelFall/Winter 2023ParisParis Fashion Week

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