Chanel Haute Couture Hinges on Artistic and Feminine Freedom

For the scene, Virginie Viard reached back out to its longstanding collaborator, Veilhan, to form a Constructivist landscape filled with built and upcycled items. Unique in shape, size, and material, arched structures, cubes of recycled plastic, bullseye targets, and more made up the entryway. As guests ventured inside, more sand awaited, as well as color-blocked patterns on the walls and sculptures on the ground.

Largely inspired by the art and the artists that surround Viard, Fall/Winter 2022-23 continues Chanel's previous collection's focus, yet allows for experimentation. “The group of artists who surround me, made up of Xavier Veilhan, Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi and joined by Pharrell Williams and model Vivienne Rohner, allows for this," said Viard. "As does the haute couture.”

The show opened to the tunes of Tellier, symphonic and harmonious with the clothes and accessories that followed. Hues—like green, baby pink, and golden brown—were seen popping from a more neutral palette of white, black, and grey, introducing silhouettes both familiar and new.

“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s—fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance," said Viard. "And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver.”

Seen flowing down the runway were looks comprised of influences from the 1930s and the 1970s—including square backs, geometric patterns, and round shoulders. Light and feminine dresses with drop waists and puffed sleeves created a dialogue with more masculine details, like men's tweed hats with wide brims. Other coats and dresses—adorned with an oversized hair bow and rooted by T-strap pumps or cowboy boots—remained tidied with ankle-length measurements, structured pockets, and buttons.

For accessories, Viard kept the collection light and nodded to the brand's latest high jewelry collection, "1932," which revisited Gabrielle Chanel's first line of gems from that year entitled "Bijoux de Diamants." Fall/Winter 2022-23 featured such necklaces as "celestial elements because they fit with pleats," placed on only a few select looks. Strong in cut and color, all other looks remained effortless and without accessories, reminding the modern woman of her freedom and autonomy—exemplified in haute couture.