Menu

  • Art
  • Lifestyle
  • Fashion
  • Design
  • Sustainability
  • Homepage
  • Whitewall Presents
  • Whitewaller
  • Insiders

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Subscribe to the Magazine

Presents

Riviera

Mary McCartney: Moment of Affection

Newsletter

Go inside the worlds of art, fashion, design, and lifestyle.

Ok
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Fashion

Chanel Haute Couture Hinges on Artistic and Feminine Freedom

By Eliza Jordan

July 11, 2022

Last week, Chanel and its dearest patrons gathered west of Paris in the Bois de Boulogne park to welcome the Fall/Winter 2022-23 haute couture collection. Presented in the outdoor stadium of the equestrian center L'Étrier de Paris, sandy grounds and an atmosphere created by the artist Xavier Veilhan paved the path for lively looks to emerge.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Chanel.

For the scene, Virginie Viard reached back out to its longstanding collaborator, Veilhan, to form a Constructivist landscape filled with built and upcycled items. Unique in shape, size, and material, arched structures, cubes of recycled plastic, bullseye targets, and more made up the entryway. As guests ventured inside, more sand awaited, as well as color-blocked patterns on the walls and sculptures on the ground.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Chanel.

Largely inspired by the art and the artists that surround Viard, Fall/Winter 2022-23 continues Chanel's previous collection's focus, yet allows for experimentation. “The group of artists who surround me, made up of Xavier Veilhan, Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi and joined by Pharrell Williams and model Vivienne Rohner, allows for this," said Viard. "As does the haute couture.”

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Chanel.

The show opened to the tunes of Tellier, symphonic and harmonious with the clothes and accessories that followed. Hues—like green, baby pink, and golden brown—were seen popping from a more neutral palette of white, black, and grey, introducing silhouettes both familiar and new.

“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s—fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance," said Viard. "And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver.”

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Chanel.

Seen flowing down the runway were looks comprised of influences from the 1930s and the 1970s—including square backs, geometric patterns, and round shoulders. Light and feminine dresses with drop waists and puffed sleeves created a dialogue with more masculine details, like men's tweed hats with wide brims. Other coats and dresses—adorned with an oversized hair bow and rooted by T-strap pumps or cowboy boots—remained tidied with ankle-length measurements, structured pockets, and buttons.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Chanel.

For accessories, Viard kept the collection light and nodded to the brand's latest high jewelry collection, "1932," which revisited Gabrielle Chanel's first line of gems from that year entitled "Bijoux de Diamants." Fall/Winter 2022-23 featured such necklaces as "celestial elements because they fit with pleats," placed on only a few select looks. Strong in cut and color, all other looks remained effortless and without accessories, reminding the modern woman of her freedom and autonomy—exemplified in haute couture.

ChanelChanel Haute CouturefashionFW22Haute Couturepris

Recommended

Fashion |July 18, 2022

Saint Laurent Presents Existential Musings and a Mystical Desert Installation by Es Devlin for Menswear SS23

Our ValuesContactAdvertiseTerms
© Whitewall 2020

Go inside the worlds of art, fashion, design, and lifestyle.

Subscribe to the Newsletter