In a breathtaking homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s profound legacy, the Chanel spring/summer 2025 haute couture collection seamlessly wove together the bold and the subtle, capturing the essence of the maison’s timeless aesthetic. In a moment between the departure of Virginie Viard and the arrival of Mathieu Blazy, the collection celebrated the house’s 110th anniversary, Coco Chanel’s daring use of black, and her mastery of color from the softest pastels to the most vibrant hues. Chanel was not only a couturière but a visionary colorist who forever transformed the world of fashion. As she once said, “Comfort has forms. Love has colors.”
“Comfort has forms. Love has colors,”
Gabrielle Chanel
Set against the iconic backdrop of the Grand Palais in Paris, the runway itself becomes a work of art. A double C in stark white formed an infinity symbol acts as a tribute to the infinite excellence of haute couture and Chanel’s unparalleled place in its history. Designed by scenographer Willo Perron, the installation evoked the chromatic circle at the heart of the collection, a vibrant reinterpretation of color’s endless possibilities. In perfect harmony with the visual grandeur, the original score by composer Gustave Rudman, curated by Michel Gaubert, provided an immersive auditory experience that elevated this presentation into an unforgettable celebration of craftsmanship.
Chanel’s Perfect Pastel Palette
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
In this collection, color unfolded like the passage of time embarking on a journey from dawn to dusk. Beginning with the soft glow of dawn in silk crêpe pajama-like garments, the palette shifted through sun-kissed hues of buttery yellow, soft lilac, and pale pink, before diving into bolder tones like orange-pink and mimosa yellow. Black and white tweed, intricately painted and embroidered, anchored the collection as the night drew near. The chromatic story extended to accessories, with shoes in shades ranging from sky blue to violet. Color is a tool used in Chanel’s arsenal for decades, as fashion evolves they continue to use their palette to break the boundaries of style.
An Update on Classic Chanel
Courtesy of Chanel.
Courtesy of Chanel.
Tweeds, pockets, and braids, all signature markers of the house are reimagined with new life, their timeless elegance made even more striking through the modern approach. Linings, once a subtle detail, popped with unexpected colors like bronze, pink, and royal blue, creating bold contrasts that infuse each piece with a playful energy. Braids too were elevated, with multicolored threads and delicate floral embroidery adding a contemporary edge.
Iconic Chanel buttons were transformed into miniature works of art—into moons, suns, and camellia flowers, crafted from rock crystal, metal, and rhinestones. In a nod to Chanel’s love for black, stark black velvet belts were embellished with lunar and solar motifs tie the collection together, a reminder that while fashion evolves the essence of Chanel remains eternal.
Courtesy of Chanel.
In a dreamlike reality, dresses alternated between short and long, defying expectation with a seamless blend of contrasting proportions. The delicate fabrics embroidered, flounced, and pleated, allowed for a virtuoso play on volume and silhouette. A stardust dress, red chiffon gown, and pale yellow satin shirt dress evoke an ethereal, fairytale-like essence; while a sky-blue puffed cape and champagne tweed coat feel like moments of pure Chanel fantasy. Through subtle trompe l’oeil techniques and painted lace that mimics tweed, each piece balanced lightness and depth, fusing the dreamlike with the real in a celebration of haute couture’s unparalleled artistry.
