Those who know Paris can attest to the Ritz Paris’ incomparable charm. Even Karl Lagerfeld calls it “the cosmopolitan spot par excellence.” Cocktails at Le Bar Vendôme and tea in the Winter Garden can easily become the setting for an international travelers’ most memorable moment—and that is something that the house of Chanel cherishes, and the brilliant Maemoiselle Coco Chanel herself did too.
And for Chanel’s new Paris Cosmopolite 2016-17 Métiers d’Art collection, the house gained inspiration solely from the legendary landmark location, offering pieces that were inspired by the “evening dresses that women used to wear to dine at the Ritz,” as Lagerfeld described. “No camellias this season, it’s all about roses!”
At the recent presentation of the collection, hand-picked celebrities and models like Lily-Rose Depp, Cara Delevigne, Georgia May Jagger, Pharrell Williams, and Levi Dylan turned the runway corner wearing either tiny black, white, and red-pink veils, or large side roses and rose crowns. Gliding along in the house’s “Café Society,” were many pieces defined at the waist, and most skirt hems modestly dropped to the calf or just above the knee. Clad heavy with elegant Parisian detail, there were flashes of ostrich and marabou feathers, sunray pleats, and intricate embroidery, while the iconic Chanel jacket was adorned with pearl braids, tweed roses, Plexiglass buttons, and floral embroidery. Fringe pockets on the jacket complemented a larger “officer’s collar” and, in some instances, a tripe belt around the waist as the leather detailing we’ve all been waiting for.
Capri pants and straight-cut skirts made up the modern suit, and a double-breasted tuxedo jacket paired with wide tweed trouser pants were finished with a lovely satin trim. Backless jackets with cashmere detailing, short tweed capes, jerseys with puffed sleeves, diaphanous skirts with tulle and Lurex, and many embroidered knitwear pieces also made strong debuts. Embroidery that mimics the Ritz Paris was seen on the iconic 2.55 handbag, and for the hobo version of the Gabrielle handbag, were new offerings in metallic gold leather or red tweed.