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Chanel SS24

Chanel SS24 Imbues Freedom in the South of France

Pearl Fontaine

6 October 2023

Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2024 Line Looks to Villa Noailles

During the bustle of Paris Fashion Week, Chanel’s creative director Virginie Viard debuted its Spring/Summer 2024 collection that was joyous and carefree. Details were inspired by the architectural masterpiece Villa Noailles in Hyères, France—the Robert Mallet-Stevens-designed property that belonged to the avid arts patron and friend of Gabrielle Chanel, Marie-Laure de Noailles, and her husband Charles de Noailles. To this day, the structure’s intriguing design and spectacular gardens sit on a sun-soaked hill not far from the sea, which offered ample inspiration for Viard’s exuberant designs.

For the collection’s introduction, a monumental installation of digital scenery collaged with florals surrounded the runway on all sides. The collection that followed invoked visions of a vibrant summer spent at Villa Noailles through more than 70 looks conceived for all scenarios—from poolside lounging and garden walks to daily outings and romantic al fresco dinners. Quintessentially Chanel, the collection also evoked a certain feeling of freedom to join its structured elegance.

Chanel SS24

Courtesy of Chanel.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2024 Prioritizes Mobility and Comfort

Prominent through the presentation were loose fits and styles that made for ease of movement. Reminiscent of silhouettes from the late 1920s and early ‘30s, during the villa’s first years of existence, were an array of new looks, including mini shifts, babydoll dresses, airy palazzo pants, floor-length lounging dresses, tops with floaty handkerchief sleeves, bathing suits, skirt sets, Bermuda shorts, and capelets. Many pieces featured juxtapositions like unexpected asymmetric skirt hems or pairings of differing textures and styles—like a plissé blouse paired with sequined joggers, or diaphanous dresses with simple thong sandals.

“Sophistication and informality, the tweed throughout the collection, sportswear and lace: I tried to bring one thing and its opposite together in the coolest way possible. And the gardens and swimming pool of the villa Noailles, that exceptional setting, lend themselves to that rather well,” said Viard.

Chanel SS24

Courtesy of Chanel.

The Gardens at Villa Noailles Informed Prints and Motifs in Chanel Spring/Summer 2024

Suggestions of the villa’s Cubist gardens, designed by Gabriel Guevrekian, were present in geometric patterns and motifs, which encompassed a cast of stripes, plaid, polka dots, triangular motifs, monograms mixed with florals, and plenty of tweed. Among the most memorable included a patchwork square pattern seen on a suiting set with roomy shorts, a flowery double-C print that painted pants and a blouse with a cardigan, and various combinations of stripes, triangles, and dots—exemplified in ensembles like a camelia lace skirt and jacket with a blouse featuring a zig-zagging chiffon design and striped stockings, as well as a pink tweed look featuring floral and chevron accents.

Looks were styled with glittering charm necklaces, emblematic double-C earrings, a variety of cross-body purses and handbags, glasses attached to neck chains, and dainty belts with bows, pearls, and charms. Footwear was comfortable and pragmatic, including flip-flops, various flats, and Mary Jane styles, while models wore their hair loose and wavy or slicked back and topped with bows or headbands.

Chanel SS24

Courtesy of Chanel.

Chanel SS24

Courtesy of Chanel.

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