As the curtain closes on New York Fashion Week, we say goodbye with transcending shows from some of the best storytellers in fashion. Featuring lovebirds, jasmine scents, and homages to powerful women it was a perfect end to one of the most important weeks in fashion. Here Whitewall explores the fantasy of Thome Browne, Bibhu Mohapatra, Christopher John Rogers, Diotima and more.
Thom Browne Unfolds Hope at NYFW
Photo by Gregoire Avenel, courtesy of Thom Browne.
Photo by Gregoire Avenel, courtesy of Thom Browne.
The fall 2025 collection by Thom Browne unfolded in a world of fantasy and freedom, symbolized by 2,000 origami paper birds and two caged love birds longing for escape. Through Browne’s storytelling genius, the garments were alive, models became stylish birds, and the runway a stage. Heritage tweeds woven in England created silhouettes with strong shoulders and elongated jackets, while skirts ranged from mini to floor length. Traditional menswear tailoring blended with playful details like tweed football pinnies and suede varsity jackets nodded to collegiate classics Swarovski crystals, and boucle yarns balanced the masculine flair with a touch of glamour and texture. Pleated skirts twisted and popped yellow accents evoking Thom Browne’s high school mascot, merging the surreal with personal fashion. Models adorned long fluttering lashes like wispy feathers, some sporting circle framed glasses adding sophisticated flair to the drama.
Bibhu Mohapatra Brings Odisha to New York
Photo by INDIGITAL, courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra.
Photo by INDIGITAL, courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra.
Inspired by an emotional journey to India’s holiest sight, Bibhu Mohapatra’s fall 2025 collection pays a poetic homage to his late parents and brother. Reflecting his upbringing in Odisha, India the show featured bits of India in every detail—from jasmine tucked under guests seats, to floral motifs and gorgeous collaborations with other Indian artists. Shades of nude, ivory, deep plums and rose golds were found in complex materials like faux leather, velvet, custom woven lace mimic traditional rice paintings. There the traditional Indian woman was modernized, an evolved powerful version. Collaboration with Indian jewelry brand Tanishq blending heritage with elegance, pushed the boundaries of modern fashion. Intertwining with Mohapatra’s vision, the stunning jewelry highlighted traditional floral themes, beauty of nature, and magnificence of royal architecture. The audience was transported to Odisha with each garment, each budding flower, and a magical scent created in partnership with Paul Austin and Austin Advisory Fragrance named Odisha Reverie.
Christopher John Rogers Returns to NYFW
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Christopher John Rogers.
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Christopher John Rogers.
After five years of anticipation, Christopher John Rogers made a thrilling return to NYFW with the collection “Exhale.” Drawing inspiration from the works of Angela de la Cruz and Hélio Oiticica, Exhale rejected convention and celebrates the beauty of defiance. The pieces effortlessly blended playful, expressive daywear with sumptuous occasion wear, offering a wardrobe that is as bold and unique as the wearer. The variety of American materials included matte cotton piques, wool tailoring, and crisp twills paired with luxurious silks, satins, and grosgrain. In the face of industry challenges, this collection felt like a breath of fresh air, expressing gratitude for the customers, partners and loved ones who have continued to support Rogers.
Diotima’s Matriarch
Photo by Zora Sicher, courtesy of Diotima.
Photo by Zora Sicher, courtesy of Diotima.
Creative Director Rachel Scott captured deep sensuality, and intimacy in the collection “Matriarch” for Diotima. This collection reclaimed and redefined the portrayal of Black women, moving beyond the dull, reductive narratives often imposed on them. The inspiration came from a call to the designer’s community to submit images of Black women who paved the way. The aunties, trans mothers, grandmothers, the matriarchs. Garments with quilted satin evening capes, cowl skirts, and crinkle chiffon dresses created a sensuality using materials often found in the bedroom. Strong, structured pieces like Harris Tweed dresses and tailored blazers with macramé details reflected the command in the outside world, while evening looks revealed a stripped-back charm through fluid wool chemises and bomber jackets in soft knit. Scott transcended the norm in this collection evoking the duality and complexity of the matriarch in fashion.
Kate Barton Brings Women Together
Photo by Ruben Chamorro, courtesy of Kate Barton.
Photo by Ruben Chamorro, courtesy of Kate Barton.
Known for her avant-garde designs spotting the runways and red carpets, New York City designer Kate Barton used her fall/winter 2025 show to tell the powerful stories of women. In her campaign, shot in the city, athletes like Kysre Gondrezick, Nastia Liukin, and Violetta Komyshan embodied strength and grace, while fashion icons Winnie Harlow and Dee Hilfiger offered a blend of style and glam. Actresses, musicians, and influencers joined in on the fun creating a variety of stories to tell. Wallis Day, Bianca Lawson, and Larsen Thompson brought storytelling depth, and Haynes Warner’s music fueled the collection’s rhythm. Barton’s sculptural style and array of support across industries created a dialogue between designer and muse, highlighting the importance of women supporting women and redefining style together.
