Last week, all eyes were on Copenhagen Fashion Week, where Danish brands like Ganni, Munthe, NYNNE, and Stine Goya introduced their latest collections for the Spring/Summer 2023 season.
Made in honor of the brand’s love for its home city of Copenhagen, Ganni’s “JOYRIDE” was inspired by the biking commute of Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup—the time of day when the designer finds all her best ideas. “Those 15 minutes are completely mine to treasure. My mind is open and my thoughts just flow. This collection is really about that feeling,” said Reffstrup. Ganni’s most responsible collection yet, 97 percent of the garments have been made from at least 50 percent certified organic, lower impact, or recycled materializations, also introducing shoes made from Vegea (made from leftover grape skins cast aside after wine production) and the innovative Infinna, a fabric made from textile waste as part of the house’s Fabrics of the Future program. Chockful of collaborations, the debuts included natural-dyed denim with Levi’s and upcycled pieces with Barbour and 66°North, executed alongside bright hues and bold silhouettes. The singular style of the Ganni girl highlighted carefree shapes like cropped shirts and jackets, low-slung pants, body-hugging dresses, and no shortage of cowboy boots—included in some of our favorite looks, like an all-over aqua ensemble with a party-ready bra top and joggers; or a dress and metallic cropped jacket in magenta.
Munthe’s designer Naja Munthe developed the Spring/Summer 2023 collection from an appreciation of the work of the Ukrainian artist Kazimir Malevich, whose practice is attributed to the Suprematist movement and the development of non-objective art. Observing Malevich’s color choices and unique visual language yielded a palette of emerald green, vibrant orange, cornflower, and caramel, accompanied by an arsenal of stripes, florals informed by Scandinavian wildflowers, and a special print by Rosa Roberts, created for a suite of silk styles. Unveiled at the Sydhavn Recycling Center, the importance of environmental responsibility was underscored by the location and the collection’s use of sustainable fabrications across 64 percent of its designs. We’re still thinking about looks like a long navy-blue wrap dress with a cinched waist and puffy ruched sleeves, styled with a collared blouse and sneakers; a calf-length poncho in orange, white, and green blocked stripes with cuffed denim and a pair of furry slide sandals; and a pair of loose jeans in marbled denim, seen with a textural white blouse, a puffy handbag, and pointed-toe flats.
NYNNE’s new designs reclaimed uninhibited freedom and a wanderlust for global destinations waiting to be explored after several seasons spent at home. Clean and sophisticated looks with minimalist styling vaguely recall the fashion of the 1990s, with effortless shapes like slip dresses, flared trousers, halter necks, and supple A-line tops and dresses. Though introduced for the Spring/Summer 2023 season, the garments were destined for diversity and meant to be layered for warmth throughout the colder months, also to transition with ease between business obligations, beach trips, days at home, and evening enjoyment alike—like a creamy pearl pants set in a swinging silky fabrication, a calf-length body-con tank dress in sage, and a white trapeze shaped dress color-blocked in black and white. Sustainability was also an important facet of the collection, seen through credibly-sourced fabrications like recycled cotton and responsible leather.
The fearsome women of the 1990s Riot Grrrl feminist movement informed Stine Goya’s Spring/Summer 2023 debuts, titled “Whisper Loud.” Seen atop a blue backdrop with mounds of earth lining the runway, the scenography (a collaboration with the creative studio Spacon & X) alluded to the juxtaposition of structure and destruction, just as opposing elements of softness and chaos were infused throughout the collection. The intermingling of neons and vibrant pastels, delicate vintage shapes with oversized ones, and ultra-feminine details with more mannish or sporty elements gave way to a fearless “more is more” attitude. Designs we can’t get off our minds include a suite of soft gray garments glistening with tiny pearls; a retro-style dress in an abstracted floral print, styled with bubble sandals, futuristic shades, and a hot pink and green shoulder bag; and a sportswear-inspired one-piece in orange and black layered under a pleated skirt in green checks.