Last week, all eyes were on Copenhagen Fashion Week, where Danish brands like Gestuz, Henrik Vibskov, P.L.N., and Soeren Le Schmidt introduced their latest collections for the Spring/Summer 2023 season.
Icons of the 1990s and early 2000s rang through in Gestuz’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection “HEAT HAZE,” which harnessed the sweat-glistening, suntanned energy of a hot summer day in Los Angeles. Remixed with the brand’s contemporary gaze were utilitarian styles with a sensual appeal, a palette of energetic hues, and animal-inspired prints looking back to patterns prominent in the decades of inspiration. Walking the runway, we saw looks like denim cargo pants with strappy heels and a swirling striped turtleneck (a favorite), matching sets with low-rise silhouettes like trousers and slip skirts paired with bustiers or cropped jackets, and body-hugging dresses in various forms. The collection’s finishing touches included vintage ‘90s boots, jewelry belonging to the personal collection of Creative Director Sanne Sehested, and a custom HEAT HAZE scent by Kim Gerlach, which includes hints of fresh magnolia and vanilla.
“Bird in Face” is the title of Henrik Vibskov’s collection that debuted for the Spring/Summer 2023 season, named for the designer’s dissection of elements of bridges. Classifying them as human-made constructions that allow us to touch spaces that were previously only inhabited by birds, this channel of thought mused how the structures are an icon for metamorphosis—taking their materials and parts as inspiration for prints and constructions that engulf the wearer’s body. The resulting garments weren’t particularly outlandish in their shapes (we saw roomy pants and dresses with a unisex approach and outerwear like biker jackets and blazers), though a nature-inspired palette and colors and patterns aplenty made for a visually engaging collection full of detail. Sewn from sustainable fabrications like organic cotton, recycled polyester, and PET bottles, and other more responsible options, looks we’re still thinking about include a frock with frilled sleeves and a multicolored grid-like pattern; a layered ensemble in various orange prints with a tan biker jacket and a contrasting black-and-white striped hood; and a dress in sheer white with abstracted appliques, cut-outs at the sides, and a matching bonnet.
Made from upcycled materials, P.L.N.’s “Collection II” embodies a raw beauty through a collection imagined almost entirely in black. Textured, tactile garments called upon goth fashion, European punk, and attire referencing historic religious uniforms resulting in varied, non-gender-descript shapes with a flair for theatrics. We saw unlikely knits with hems that appeared unfinished, unraveling fringe, distressed details, dangling chain jewelry, and leather straps bound over tees. Some of the most memorable styles included a couture-esque gown in black featuring floor-length sleeves, a patchwork skirt, and a torn gauzy underlay; a see-through sweater dress with long baggy sleeves and chunky black boots; and a jacket made from various shades of black denim paired with pants of the same origin, which featured cut-outs on the upper thighs like chaps.
In Soeren Le Schmidt’s Spring/Summer 2023 debuts, the designer’s contemporary tailoring was put to use in an inventive suite of elegant yet offbeat eveningwear. Pitted against the industrial stays of Copenhagen’s Refshaleøen, where the presentation took place, the full dresses and sleek suiting stood out in hues of bright white, black, and electrifying yellow. Elements of classic formal wear were reimagined in forms like blazers-turned-vests, suits with high waists and cropped jackets, mini dresses with sloping, round double-breasted collars, and more. Styled cleanly with details like eyewear or a simple clutch, the collection’s highlights included a black structured mini dress with a white collar and thigh-high leather boots, a long-sleeved mock neck top with a long tulle skirt in yellow, and a trousers and shirt pairing with a silky cummerbund.