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Daniel Roseberry Pays Tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli in The Phoenix

Schiaparelli’s Couture Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection, designed by Daniel Roseberry, debuted this month, signifying the gift of rebirth.

Daniel Roseberry in a recent conversation was told, “People don’t buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.” That thought sparked an initial inspiration behind Schiaparelli’s couture fall/winter 2024-2025 collection. Entitled “The Phoenix,” the collection debuted on June 24 at Hótel de Rothschild, in Paris’s 8th arrondissement. 

The Elsa Schiaparelli Touch

Capturing founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s special gift of shaping-shifting fashion between the lines of life, Roseberry embraced the art of rebirth within fashion to give each silhouette a second form of life. The 31-piece collection took liberty in the beauty haute couture offers in building a unique relationship between client and creation. 

Roseberry used this expression to exceed the vision he has for the maison today. The artistry within each piece showcases a clear vision of origin from sketch to study to fabric. The Schiaparelli fall/winter 2024-2025 collection reinforced the relationship Roseberry has created with women by intending to provide a continuous possibility of rebirth.

Schiaparelli’s Striking Silhouettes for “The Phoenix”

Paris Couture Week Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

Individuality was spread throughout the looks via intricate technicality that differentiated each garment. They embodied abstract silhouettes that pushed the maximum volume and dimension. The color palette remained neutral in black, white, blush, brown, navy, green, and red, leading in shining details of sequence, diamonds, and sheer. There were corsets, skirts, dresses, tailored jackets, and trousers. 

Look one, entitled “The Phoenix,” acted as the basis of the collection. Inspired by Schiaparelli’s homage to late dancer, Anna Pavlova, in her gala dress with coq-feathered stoles wrapper around her shoulders. Roseberry described Schiaparelli in this moment as a Phoenix, a mythical creature whose power holds the ability to reinvent. Look one was constructed out of Phoenix-wing shaped shoulders embroidered with chrome trompe l’oeil feathers. The underlay was a black velvet cape paired with shiny silver palladium egg earrings.  

Paris Couture Week Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

In another look, there was an exquisite vision of detail within a sheer pale green mesh illusion corset. Running throughout the mesh, embroidery created a dusting effect of rhinestones and sequence. The dress was complemented with matching black mesh stockings and gloves. A striking effect of a nude crinoline veil covered the face.

Paris Couture Week Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

A black velvet bustier dress was embroidered in white pearls and rhinestones. The effect created a polka-dotted pattern that enhanced the impossible V-neckline inspired by a vintage shoe. Dimension was added near the chest to create conical breasts. The stomach showed some skin revealing the Egg bijou pendant.

Paris Couture Week Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli Imagines a Shimmering Rebirth in Silk, Feathers, and Sequins

Phoenix symbolism was used for another look, with a jacket fashioned entirely out of embroidered ecru trompe l’oeil feathered tips made from silk organza. It was contrasted with black pearls at the tips of the feathers and paired with a matching toque. The cropped trousers were made out of black wool and mohair. 

Paris Couture Week Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

Another jacket was crafted in ecru crepe satin and draped in satin. It was paired with a tulle skirt full of dimension and volume and embroidered with sequins and shiny silver Egg crystals. The model’s face was covered with a long crinoline veil was topped with a black velvet headpiece, with tonal feathers peaking out the top. 

Paris Couture Week Courtesy of Schiaparelli.




Find more about the Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture debuts from names like Chanel, Schiaparelli, Elie Saab, and more.
During Paris Couture Week, designers have a chance to be particularly playful and explorative. Here, Whitewall shares the shows of Jean Paul Gaultier, Giorgio Armani Privé, Giambattista Valli, and Schiaparelli.
Paris Fashion Week is nearing its end, so we’re diving into some of the new collections introduced for Fall/Winter 2023.


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