Demna Gvasalia Presents Dramatic 2nd Couture Collection with Balenciaga

Modernism was at the heart of this Fall/Winter 2022-23 collection. Japanese limestone-based neoprene was introduced as a modern version of Gazar, the fabric invented for Cristóbal Balenciaga. Looks were completed with 3D-printed padding and wetsuit-inspired zip closures. Accessorizing the looks were face shields in coated polyurethane engineered by Mercedes-AMG F1 Applied Science. The show’s music was played on individual speakers held by models as they walked the runway—part of a collaboration with Bang & Olufsen. The Speaker Bag was a functional purse as well as a portable state-of-the-art sound system. 

Paillettes created whimsical effects with original textures, highlighting raw edges with flawless embroidery. A trompe l’oeil tweed was achieved by interspersing organza and jersey ribbons with beads and sequins. A crystal-beaded fishnet gown, sequined dresses, and jet-beaded jeans were a testament to thousands of hours of hand-sewing. T-shirts were bonded with aluminum, creating an entirely new fabric that holds its shape. Japanese denim was indigo selvedge washed, satin-lined, and finished with silver-plated buttons. Corsetry was incorporated into men’s tops, creating extreme silhouettes alongside Basque waist wool coats.

Sustainability was also an integral aspect of the new collection, as over a quarter was made with upcycled items. Vintage bombers, parkas, car coats, and jeans were deconstructed and reassembled, transforming two garments into a newly structured one. Methodically sourced belts and wallets became intricate patchworks. Antique wrist watches were reintroduced as jewelry. Feathers were simulated via multiple embroidery techniques, using boned organza or cut silk. Faux fur was achieved with high-definition photography. In the case of a leopard coat, 150 kilometers of thread was hand tufted.

Draped dresses with trains, capes, scarf tops, bows, and gathered skirts reinterpreted archival pieces with exclusive colors, specially developed fabric treatments, shiny coatings, extreme silhouettes, and hand-manipulated paillettes. A veiled wedding gown made with 250 meters of varying tulle referenced an archival motif. Its 7,500-hour embroidery process used 25 types of paillettes and beads, including 70,000 crystals, 80,000 silver leaves, and 200,000 sequins.