In recent years, a hopeful streak of feminism has turned into a lightning bolt. For American artist Judy Chicago, though, questions of how women impact the world have been at her work’s forefront for decades. “What if women ruled the world?” was her most recent question, highlighted yesterday in Paris by Dior for its haute couture Spring/Summer 2020 show.
Presented in the garden of the Rodin Museum was a powerful set by the house. As guests arrived, they were wowed with a large white bubble entrance designed by Bureau Betak. As they made their way down a long purple carpet with floral detailing, special attendees were then welcomed in to explore an immersive environment adorned with hanging works by Chicago.
The artist’s commissioned exhibition “The Female Divine” (open to the public through January 26) features large appliqued and embroidered banners, spotlighting questions around the evolution of power for women. All pieces were produced by the Chanakya School of Craft—a non-profit institution in India that preserves craft, supported by Dior.
In addition to the show’s main backdrop work What if Women Ruled the World?, we also noted questions about the political and environmental climates we’re living in that could be impacted by the power of women. “Will the Earth be protected?,” “Will there be violence?,” and “Will private property exist?” were other questions embroidered in French.
As the show began, the fundamental link between fashion and the body was interpreted by new feminine looks. As a tribute to the spirit of a lady, dresses, suits, and gowns held timeless modernity with a twist. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri was also inspired by the harmony of the goddess Athena. A combination of intellectual strength and congruous aesthetics, Athena is seemingly a woman—or several women—among us today.
Fitted jackets featured loose collars, skirts and trousers had tuxedo details, and golden wheat ears were seen wrapping several pieces. Dresses with layered micro fringe were paired with braided sandals, and a gown with a silver layered pleated skirt was affixed to a transparent top featuring an outline of a lion’s head.
As more majestic gowns floated by, we noticed the juxtaposition of masculine details for each. Short hair was complemented by a short veil, mix-match earrings dangled with gold moons and big pearls, and large gold feathers were seen making up necklaces, hand bracelets, and the tops of sandals.