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We’ve grown to expect great things from Dior’s runway shows, but its Fall 2023 menswear presentation was truly out of this world. The house traveled to Giza, Egypt over the weekend, where a glowing white installation of stadium seating rose out of the desert sand, facing the Great Pyramids, which were the awe-inspiring backdrop for a collection titled “Guided by the Stars.” As the sun set, spotlights began to flash through the sky, and silhouettes emerged, revealing a collection that, while rooted in the maison’s esteemed codes, felt suggestive of another realm entirely.
Creative Director Kim Jones infused astrological influences throughout the experience, finding the heavens to be the most entrancing aspect of a look at Ancient Egypt, but also favoring the avenue for its link to Monsieur Christian Dior, whose own life and practice were frequently guided by the stars—considering a “lucky star” talisman, in particular, which first prompted him to launch his fashion label 75 years ago. “It’s about how the past shapes the future or an idea of the future from the past,” said Jones.
With this approach, he elevated suiting and comfortable daywear with a futuristic feel—almost like a high-fashion take on something that might be worn by the characters of Duneor aboard the Millennium Falcon. Crisply tailored trousers were updated with a kilt-like overlay that hung to one side and mini cargo shorts were seen paired with long thermal layers for warmth. On top, sartorial staples like blazers and overcoats were replaced with floating capes, cocooning outerwear, and utilitarian pieces with a relaxed and comfortable appeal. Every look appeared to be conceived with protective qualities in mind, often utilizing elements like reflective eyewear, structured padding, thick neck scarves, face coverings, and helmets to ensure no skin was left to the mercy of the elements.
Desert hues like white, gray, and sand were in tandem with blazes of color like yellow and orange, reminiscent of fiery astrological bodies. While the garments were primarily solid in color, the occasional patterned knit bore a pyramid motif or was scattered with markings indicative of constellations, while a suite of starry galactic graphics was engineered from far away imagery that could be seen only through NASA’s telescopes. Where pattern was missing, the texture became a focal point, intermingling various tactile elements within each look—like plushy knits with crisp pleats, sparkling beaded details layered under delicate mesh, and protective armor riffing on the house’s embroidery, was paired with soft wool patchworks.
Looks that we’re still thinking about include a utility suit with protective padding at the knees in sky blue, styled with a woven basket in place of a backpack; an ensemble in hues of gray featuring futuristic moon boots, and headgear not unlike that of a beekeeper’s uniform; a more classic-leaning suit styled underneath a silky sheer overcoat, featuring an enclosed helmet and a small leather clutch; and a galaxy-patterned windbreaker making a statement over all-black trousers and boots.