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This morning at the Musée Rodin in Paris, Dior revealed its Fall/Winter 2022 haute couture presentation within a sensational set by the Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko. Curated by Solomia Savchuk in collaboration with Maria Alicata and Paola Ugolini, the artwork, named "The Flow," anchored the room with traditional craftsmanship and heritage through landscapes most common in early 20th century photographs.
The Kyiv-based artist's embroidered scenes, derived from the theme of memory, blossomed with trees and flowers to express the idea of womankind, eternity found in Ukranian nature, and bright futures.
For the installation, a tree of life was imagined by the hands of Dior's long-standing Indian collaborators, the Chanakya School of Craft, with its roots, leaves, and trunk respectively symbolizing stability, elevation, and hope.
In this atmosphere of art and craft, and natural and manmade beauty, opulent garments and accessories flowed down the runway with nods to folkloric decorations and customs. These influences—prevalent in Ukraine, but also in many cultures of the Balkan region and Europe—were seen marking gowns and crowns, shirts and skirts, jackets and trousers, and more.
To the music of Michel Gaubert, models wore over 60 looks that were layered in details created by hand, from patchwork and pleats to embroidered hems and geometric patterns. In colors that moved from light to dark, we saw chiffon gowns, cashmere coats, jacquard dresses, and silk faille trenches. At large, the small details shined the most—from matching bodices and twisted hems with gold braids to satin linings and guipure motif inlays.
Materials that reinterpreted Dior's iconic New Look silhouette were seen too, like an updated rendition of the Bar jacket in a vertically-smocked fabric that was paired with a structured skirt. Other finite details and can't-miss pairings ranged from wool crepe jackets with patchwork panels to long lace dresses that grazed the floor—all reflecting the tree of life's power to recover and shine bright in a better future.