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Shiatzy Chen Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week.

9 Collections That Set the Tone for a More Personal Paris Fashion Week

From sculptural materials to instinctive design, gold and silver appear alongside texture and transformation as quiet threads of the season.

As Fashion Month draws to a close, Paris exhales after an event-packed week of runway debuts and shifting creative directions. Fall-Winter 2026 moves through a spectrum of ideas, from nature and heritage to duality, personal identity, and subtle disruption.

Several visual threads emerge across the season. Metallic accents in gold and silver appear throughout accessories, sculptural jewelry, leather treatments, and hardware details, catching light across the runway. At the same time, designers place renewed focus on materiality, exploring texture through lace, shearling, leather, and layered fabrics that shape the silhouette as much as the cut itself. Together, these elements reveal a season guided less by strict trends and more by tactile experimentation and instinct. Below are eight standout shows from the latter half of Paris Fashion Week that capture this evolving mood.

Georges Hobeika: A Winter Bouquet in Bloom

Georges Hobeika Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Georges Hobeika.
Georges Hobeika Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Georges Hobeika.

For Fall Winter 2026, a bouquet slowly unfolded on the runway at Georges Hobeika, becoming a meditation on the fleeting beauty of flowers in bloom. The collection moved like a floral arrangement taking shape, beginning with smaller accents and greenery before opening into larger, more expressive blossoms. Pale tones dominated the early looks, where light filtered through fabrics like sunlight passing through delicate petals.

Satin reflected a soft luminosity, while embroidery and lace introduced the tactile dimension. Texture became as important as color, adding depth to the collection’s floral narrative. As the show progressed, the palette deepened, and silhouettes sharpened slightly, echoing the earth that supports the bloom as daywear gradually transitioned into sculptural evening forms.

Hobeika returns to flowers as a symbol of femininity, tenderness, and quiet resilience. Fragility becomes its own form of strength, encouraging mindfulness and intention. As the house describes it, “she dances at the heart of the flowers, carried forward by grace and light.”

grounds: Disruption

grounds Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Photography by Luca Tombolini. Courtesy of grounds.
grounds Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Photography by Luca Tombolini. Courtesy of grounds.

grounds opened its Fall-Winter 2026 show with a quiet act of disruption. Three models appeared with their garments reversed, the back of the clothing worn on the front of the body. Their faces were concealed by braided hair pulled forward, a gesture that immediately unsettled the familiar contours of the figure.

As the collection unfolded, the clothes gradually returned to their expected orientation, yet the hair continued to resist convention. Strands fell across faces, secured awkwardly beneath the chin with elastic ties or held in place with sunglasses. The result was a slightly disheveled elegance, a visual recalibration that softened the rigid repetition of daily routines. With the front becoming the back and vice versa, the body appeared destabilized and strangely ambiguous.

Among the most striking pieces was the Manus Sole, where the shoe’s base curves upward like a sculpted hand cradling the foot. The design reinforces grounds’ futuristic vocabulary, merging mechanical form with sculptural sensibility and the playful experimentation rooted in Japanese subculture.

Niccolò Pasqueletti: Between Earth and Ether

Niccolo Pasqualetti Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Niccolò Pasqueletti.
Niccolo Pasqualetti Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Niccolò Pasqueletti.

At the Palais de Tokyo, Niccolò Pasqualetti approached Fall-Winter 2026 as a meditation on the space between body and spirit. As the show notes suggested, the collection seeks to “close the distance between the physical body and the ethereal,” unfolding through a language of texture, light, and material transformation.

Materials form the core of the collection. Chambray two-tone wovens, suede, calfskin, studded lambskin, jacquard, and sequins build a tactile landscape, while the palette shifts through deep reds, moss greens, orange, and blue. Technical experimentation appears throughout: golden silk manipulated to resemble fur pelts, sheepskin dyed to mimic deer hide, and cotton stained to evoke soil.

Sculptural silver elements punctuate the garments, no longer functioning as separate objects but as extensions of the wearer. Soft structures are cinched with metal rings designed for layered styling, introducing an avant-garde sensibility into everyday dressing. Asymmetrical tailoring grounds the silhouettes, balancing earthly materiality with moments of luminosity that suggest something slightly otherworldly.

Shiatzy Chen: Dance of Jade 

Shiatzy Chen Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Shiatzy Chen.
Shiatzy Chen Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Shiatzy Chen.

Presented on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Shiatzy Chen’s collection unfolded like a Tang dynasty scroll painting in motion. Inspired by the dynasty’s spirit of openness and cultural confidence, the collection explored femininity through rhythm and movement. As the house notes, “femininity is formed through rhythm and movement, and sculpts the self through motion, demonstrating inner harmonious resilience with softness and strength.”

Silhouettes draw from the traditional ruqun, with elevated waists and elongated vertical lines that define the body and frame the neckline. The palette reflects the landscapes and spring excursions often depicted in Tang paintings, centering on expressive tones of orange, green, and gold. Softer combinations of white and green or white and red reference jadeite cabbage and preserved snow mustard, motifs rooted in Chinese cultural symbolism.

Jade appears throughout the collection as both ornament and structure. Brushed denim features jade inlays, while oversized jade donut forms are sculpted into jewelry and accessories. Circular shapes, including beads, discs, and bangles, symbolize harmony and protection, with necklaces designed to transform into brooches. The men’s looks echo the dynasty’s sense of abundance through embroidery, belted suits, squared raglan sleeves, and subtly distressed finishes.

Javier Guijarro: Into the Forest

Javier Guijarro Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Javier Guijarro.
Javier Guijarro Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Javier Guijarro.

Catalan designer Javier Guijarro presented a collection in Paris that signals a growing maturity in his practice. For Fall-Winter 2026, the designer looked to the quiet emotional landscape of Hirokazu Kore-eda’s film Monster, where the forest becomes a place of both uncertainty and refuge. In Guijarro’s interpretation, the forest acts as a metaphor for identity shaped through instinct, intimacy, and gradual transformation.

The collection reworks a classic wardrobe of checked fabrics, wool, leather, and silk into silhouettes that reflect the brand’s evolving language. Waxed fabrics, waterproof finishes, and functional outerwear introduce a subtle technical edge, balancing rural references with contemporary construction. The garments feel lived in, as though shaped by the environments they move through.

A second influence appears in the animated series Over the Garden Wall, whose surreal woodland journey echoes themes of growth and adventure. Footwear arrives through a collaboration with Converse, where the iconic Chuck Taylor silhouette is reimagined through unexpected textures and finishes, reinforcing the collection’s dialogue between heritage and modern sensibility.

Zadig&Voltaire: Parisian Rock Revisited

Zadig&Voltaire Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Zadig&Voltaire.
Zadig&Voltaire Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Zadig&Voltaire.

Fall-Winter 2026 marks Dan Sablon’s debut for Zadig&Voltaire, and with it an unexpected shift from New York Fashion Week to Paris. Staged in the courtyard of the Musée Galliera, the presentation revisited the brand’s rock-inflected identity while leaning into a nostalgic return to Y2K and 2016 fashion codes.

The collection builds its attitude through familiar wardrobe elements: skinny scarves, one-shoulder tops, lace details, leather jackets, and leather trousers. Sunglasses appear throughout in oversized forms, often bold enough to obscure the entire eye, reinforcing the collection’s confident, slightly rebellious tone.

The palette remains deliberately simple with black, white, denim blue, red, military green, and beige forming the foundation. Gold accents and metal rings punctuate the looks, adding a subtle metallic rhythm to the silhouettes. Together these details create a wardrobe grounded in the house’s signature blend of Parisian ease and rock energy, where nostalgia becomes a tool for reinterpreting the brand’s established aesthetic.

Off-White™: MR.DAVIS

Off-White Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Off-White.
Off-White Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Off-White.

At Off-White™, Ib Kamara drew on the legacy of Miles Davis, the musician who reshaped jazz by blending it with rock, funk, and electronic music. Drawing from the Miles Davis archive, Kamara approaches the collection through the lens of improvisation, echoing both Davis’s restless experimentation and Virgil Abloh’s philosophy of subtle conceptual shifts that alter perception.

Menswear carries the rhythm of Davis’s personal style through statement separates. Flared denim, knitted shirts, and tailored vests and jackets move between sharp structure and relaxed silhouettes, translating the musician’s effortless cool into a contemporary streetwear language. Womenswear finds its counterpart in Betty Davis, Miles’s former wife and a magnetic performer in her own right. Strong shoulders, sculpted waists, and elongated lines balance precision with sensuality. Lace and sheer layers introduce lingerie-coded elements inspired by her onstage looks, creating garments that feel both powerful and intimate.

A palette of red, blue, Kelly green, and yellow grounds the collection’s visual energy. As Kamara notes, “disruption can’t happen in a vacuum. It requires a dialogue and a catalyst, someone who breaks the rules, interrogates the status quo.”

Isabel Marant: Parisienne Duality

Isabel Marant Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Isabel Marant.
Isabel Marant Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Isabel Marant.

Isabel Marant returned this season to the effortless cool that defines her Parisienne archetype. Sleek denim, boxy leather jackets, and relaxed tailoring anchored the collection, capturing the ease of daywear that feels instinctive rather than styled. The familiar Marant silhouette appeared grounded in black and anthracite tones, punctuated by flashes of red and blue that sharpened the line of the body.

A tension between masculine and feminine ran quietly throughout the collection. Sailor cable knit sweaters and aviator outerwear with oversized buttons introduced a utilitarian weight, balanced by tulle dresses, embroidered bustiers, and tall leather boots. Silk night robes and lace camisole tops revealed subtle lingerie undertones within a wardrobe otherwise rooted in leather, shiny vinyl, and patchwork shearling.

As the looks moved into evening, silhouettes softened and light entered the palette. Silver lurex shirts glimmered beneath tailored jackets while dresses paired with rounded bomber shapes. Reversible garments introduced a quiet duality, echoing the collection’s balance between structure and ease.

Miu Miu: Mindful Intimacy

Miu Miu Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Miu Miu.
Miu Miu Fall Winter 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Courtesy of Miu Miu.

Miuccia Prada presented Miu Miu on a runway layered in grass, grounding the collection in a quiet meditation on the relationship between mind and body. The garments focus on intimacy and agency, embracing the figure with a warm, sensual sensibility. The show opened simply with tailored sets and dresses cinched just below the chest, establishing a soft structure that follows the body. Leather coats and shearling soon entered the narrative, introducing a slightly bohemian energy. Leather pieces carried a lived-in finish, favoring tactile surfaces over polished smoothness. 

Throughout the collection, small bows punctuated the necklines of mini dresses in cotton and leather. Nylon looks appeared alongside shearling-lined jackets, while a furry trapper hat recurred as a playful signature. Toward the end, the mood shifted into evening. Sheer silhouettes embellished with jewels echoed the sequined details found on the trapper hats, bringing the collection to a quiet shimmer of intimacy and light.

SAME AS TODAY

Featured image credits: Courtesy of Shiatzy Chen.

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