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Fashion Week SS21: Marni, Sportmax, Trussardi, and More

Eliza Jordan

28 September 2020

While fashion week as we know it may forever be changed, brands are still finding ways to introduce their latest seasonal collections—whether in person or online. Here, we’re sharing what’s new from Marni, Sportmax, Trussardi, and more.

Marni’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection celebrates self-expression and the nature of collective efforts. Championing a “we” mentality, the line looks at those wearing the new garments not as models, but as humans. Coats, tank tops, shoes, and accessories all embody an ode to craftsmanship—with pieces frayed, clashed together, and deconstructed. As if part accidental and part deliberate, outfits were long and short, lean and oversized, and an array of textures and shapes were paired with thick-soled shoes and a bathing suit. The collection was shot in the busy streets of a foreign country, with bold colors and prints contrasting with the background of daily life—a reminder of necessity and unity during difficult times such as these amid the pandemic.

Courtesy of Marni.

Sportmax presented its new collection through a live show in Milan. Inspired by the poetic words of Walt Whitman, Spring/Summer 2021’s notes started off with a poem entitled I Sing the Body Electric. Romantic pieces like knitwear, leather, and tie-dye pieces were layered; an array of color combinations were seen on see-through fabrics and neutral shades were unique and eye-catching. Other references that leaked into the line was the on-screen persona of Romy Schneider—from La Piscine to L’Enfer—and we saw that beauty embodied in soft fabrics that easily transitioned from day to night.

Trussardi unveiled the fourth chapter of its “Archive+Now” project. First introduced last year by Co-Creative Directors Fiona Sinha and Aleksandar Stanie, “Archive+Now” takes a look back at the brand’s history, gaining inspiration from its archives. For its latest installation, Trussardi unites men’s and women’s collections, offering pieces that mix subcultures and metropolitan minimalism with post-punk waves and the club scene. Inspired by clubs in Naples during the 1980s and portraits were taken inside video bars in Rome, the latest line features pieces that are distorted and authentic at the same time. Super-fine linen cobweb knits are mixed between oversized denim pieces; subverted iconography is seen on historic Trussardi branding text; and the house’s signature leather is combined with a selection of accessories, like maxi shopper bags and ultra-soft clutches.

Marni

Courtesy of Marni.

The latest collection of Tod’s, “The Song,” is a harmony of voice and instrument. From discoveries found at Villa Necchi to those found in instruments played alone, Spring/Summer 2021 is an eccentric and spontaneous offering of intricate details and craft excellence. Safari jackets, field jackets, duster jackets, leather blousons, and pleated trousers stand out. Boots are made of canvas, Tod’s Oboe bag is new in a hobo profile, and wedges have a high cork platform. Our favorite? Chunky sneakers with extra-long ties that wrapped delicately up the leg.

The Milan-based brand Alanui welcomed fashion lovers to “West is a State of Mind.” The collection, inspired by the open West—like New Mexico and its liberating landscapes—was full of patterns, charming patterns, and horizons rendered in patterns. Denim vests, cardigans, ponchos, and hats took on red clay tones. Airy gingham dresses with spaghetti straps were seen worn with new jacquard blankets over the shoulders; matching sets featured fancy yarns and intarsia panels; and stonewashed pieces have detachable collars. For SS21, the brand also continued its collaboration with Peanuts—a resulting line of crewnecks and cardigans that feature the classic American comic strip’s playful character in new styles. This season also features an exclusive partnership with Sebago, welcoming new shoes with fringes, beads, and charms.

Sportmax

Courtesy of Sportmax.

 

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Whitewall highlights Paris Fashion Week presentations, including those from Lutz Huelle, Marine Serre, Coperni, and more.
This season’s Milan Fashion Week united a mélange of internationally renowned designers, who took to unlikely venues like Italian tram stations to debut looks that were truly inspired. Below, we’ve compiled our personal favorites from Margiela, Moschino, Tod’s, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Marni.
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