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While fashion week as we know it may forever be changed, brands are still finding ways to introduce their latest seasonal collections—whether in person or online. Here, we’re sharing what’s new from Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, and Richard Malone.
This season, Molly Goddard got us again with her over-the-top silhouettes. Equal parts playful and pretty, intense and imaginative, each look defied space and circumstance. When Goddard wanted to create a new collection, she mentioned in her collection’s notes that she wanted to do something “really pared back.” After designing a collection full of neutral colors, she felt depressed, then turning to the neons, polka dots, checkerboard prints, and bright bags we didn’t know we yearned for until now. Inspired by Villa Menafoglio and Giuseppe and Giovanna Panza’s art collection that fills it, the Spring/Summer 2021 collection centered around a theme: clashing. Photographed in a simple white room by Ben Broomfield, we saw the clash take over. Textures clashed with Claus Oldenburg papier-mâché dresses and Robert Morris sculptures; inspiration from Fruits magazine clashed with inspiration from Camden street style; and prints clashed with bold, bright colors like lime green, cream, and tangerine orange—all paired with platform shoes from the label’s brand new collaboration with Ugg.
Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection allowed us to explore an otherworldly time and place. Inspired by escapism and the right to dream, the line was full of embroidery done by hand, classic floral prints (seemingly screen-grabbed from the Victorian era), and modest cuts with intricate draping. For the line’s debut, Rocha hosted a small preview at Hauser & Wirth in London, and released an opulent film by her partner, the cinematographer Eoin McLaughlin, and the director James Coyle. Pearl beading, brocade details, and emotion busted from the seams, while music by Frederic Sanchez played. Structured dresses with pockets, taffeta mini dresses, and bralette tops and bags made of pearly beads were paired with platform shoes or ballet flats.
Richard Malone’s SS21 collection’s notes started off with a line from the Canadian writer Iain Reid: “We’re stationary, and time passes through us.” As like most of the rest of the world, Malone was impacted by recent circumstances and events brought on by the Coronavirus pandemic, leaving his view of time-warped and dismantled. For his latest collection entitled “Rehearsal,” the designer dreamed up clothes as props, reimagining life and the act of getting dressed with an extraordinary experience. Set-like pieces are seen in weighted, almost-upholstered evening pieces; ochre bouclè tailoring and silk-like wool crêpe heightens the mood; and high-drama screams from substantial dresses with appointed ends. For inspiration, Malone dug into two books that helped with his design process—I’m Thinking of Ending Things by Reid and A Ghost in the Throat by Doireann Ní Ghríofa—and never looked back. With distant centuries in mind, from the 1700s to the present day, a surreal wardrobe followed, giving exaggerated silhouette and extravagant looks a new home.