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Yesterday, Burberry introduced its womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 2022, taking us on a sensorial experience titled “Animal Instinct.” The presentation was filmed in a succession of interior spaces, featuring models leading us through scenes like a light-filled room with piles of glittering silver gravel, a mirrored hallway with the clang of church bells playing through giant speakers, a cavernous covering with a ferocious wind, and a dark space holding a raging party.
“To me, this presentation really represents the freedom of our imaginations: how we dream to come alive,” said Riccardo Tisci, Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer. “I wanted to move through a series of immersive spaces, each of them unique and unexpected in their sound, texture, and experience. It’s that idea of flicking between the endless realities and fantasies we have at our fingertips each day.”
While it was no surprise to find the Burberry trench at the center of these new designs, the house’s exciting reinventions of the classic silhouette kept our interest throughout the entire selection of London-chic coats, dresses, tops, and trousers. Interplays of volume and detail updated the quintessential silhouette in renditions like a sleeveless version, a mini trench, and a style with a boatneck, as well as taking less obvious cues from the iconic garment to inform pieces like dresses with long trench straps floating from the waist, deconstructed coats with capes, and vests with large cut-outs.
Imagined primarily in a palette of black, white, and neutrals, the occasional pop of pink, yellow, or orange accompanied solid garments and a selection of patterns suggestive of animals, like black and white cow spots or a multi-colored abstracted print. Outside of the reinvigorated trench styles, the collection opted for a long, sleek trouser that extended down the feet, loose dress and jacket silhouettes with fringes and overlapping layers, and sensual, fitted tops featuring sheer material or cutouts that left sections of skin bare—like a body-hugging look in nude composed of high-waisted pants and a matching blouse with circles of exposed skin, layered with a cropped-sleeve trench.
In line with the collection title, some models were styled with large prosthetic ears reminiscent of a cow or a pig, while several versions of a tall cap reminded us of the crown worn by Max in Where the Wild Things Are or a pair of large animal ears. The remaining accessories included understated sandals and pumps with T-straps, thick, cuff-like leather necklaces, and several styles of bags, like a cross-body or a miniature duffle shape.
Other looks we’re still thinking about include a long dress in black, white, and pink with capped sleeves; a long, furry sleeveless coat with an animal tail attached at the shoulder styled with a crown-like hat; and a dress with an asymmetrical front closure and long fringe details, imagined in black and white cow spots.