The spring/summer 2026 menswear collections debuting in Milan were less about shock and more about a shift—from hard to soft, from fashion to function, from noise to nuance. With houses like Corneliani, Ralph Lauren, Emporio Armani, and Setchu, what stood out wasn’t the provocations, but the precision. These weren’t clothes designed to shout, but to move—with grace, with purpose, with poise.
Ralph Lauren — Purple Label Riviera
Courtesy of Ralph Lauren Purple Label.
Courtesy of Ralph Lauren Purple Label.
In a return to Milan, Ralph Lauren Purple Label presented a private villa show with silk double-breasted blazers, linen beach pants, and cashmere polos. It felt like a love letter to the golden age of Italian elegance, seen through an East Coast lens.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s Spring 2026 collection is a refined tribute to the modern voyager, blending timeless elegance with utility and artisanal craft. Inspired by global journeys and the world’s finest natural textiles, the collection moves from earthy daytime ease to evening sophistication. Open-weave sport coats, silk-linen blends, and relaxed knits are rendered in a palette of tans, browns, and blacks.
Formalwear evolves through textured silk tuxedos and Glen plaid suits. Maritime influences shine in linen tailoring and striped knits. Accessories include handcrafted turquoise and silver jewelry, created in partnership with Apache silversmith Neil Zarama through the Authentic Makers program.
“This is the essence of timeless style—where craftsmanship meets the spirit of adventure,”
—Ralph Lauren
“For Spring 2026, our journey through the world’s finest textiles is a testament to the modern voyager. From the earthy warmth of daytime to the sophisticated allure of evening, each piece tells a story of adventure and refinement. This is a wardrobe where quality meets utility, where handmade fabrics blend seamlessly with practical purpose. This is the essence of timeless style—where craftsmanship meets the spirit of adventure,” said Ralph Lauren.
Corneliani — Precision with Poetry
Courtesy of Corneliani.
Corneliani’s collection focused on flowing fabrics, tonal layering, and sensual tailoring. Cream, stone, and clay tones harmonized with languid suiting and easy-knit jackets that walked the line between minimalism and tradition. Corneliani’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection brings effortless elegance into motion, fusing sharp tailoring with fluid ease for the modern man on the move. Think sandy beige, sage green, and periwinkle blue—nature-inspired hues that shift with the light and mood.
Silhouettes are soft, lines relaxed, and fabrics impossibly lightweight, creating a refined wardrobe that moves seamlessly from city street to seaside escape. With a focus on versatility and quiet luxury, each piece channels freedom, flow, and understated confidence. It’s classic Corneliani—reimagined for a new era of casual sophistication where comfort doesn’t compromise style.
Giorgio Armani — Desert Reimagined
Courtesy of Giorgio Armani.
Courtesy of Giorgio Armani.
Giorgio Armani’s vision for SS26 channeled nomadic elegance with tassels, flowing robes, and EA7 activewear in earthy, neutral tones. It was both literal and symbolic—a traveler’s wardrobe built for resilience and reverie.
This season’s collection is a study in contrasts, effortlessly blending city and resort, East and West, North and South into a harmonious whole. Lightness—of both material and mood—defines the relaxed yet refined silhouettes: shawl-collared double-breasted jackets, teardrop-pleated trousers, and airy leather outerwear flow freely over the body. Knitwear is voluminous yet weightless, while accessories like braided belts and raffia hats echo a spirit of ease.
The color palette weaves together desert neutrals, rich blues, urban greys, and sun-washed Mediterranean hues. Everything moves to a rhythm that’s fluid but precise, embracing freedom, balance, and soft sophistication from day to night.
Setchu — Cross-Cultural Sculpting
Courtesy of Setchu.
Courtesy of Setchu.
Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata continued his dialogue between Savile Row tailoring and African basketry. Lightweight safari jackets, sculpted woven accessories, and origami-wrapped shirting made Setchu’s SS26 one of the most intellectual and tactile shows of the week.
Setchu’s collection, Chasing Rainbows by the Hour, channels a transformative spirit rooted in cultural fusion and instinctive design. Inspired by a journey to Victoria Falls and a collaboration with LVMH Métiers d’Art, Satoshi Kuwata blends African craftsmanship with Japanese precision and Western tailoring. Garments defy fixed form—shirts become wraps, trousers double as skirts, jackets convert into bags—inviting freedom of wear.
Influences from sports, uniforms, and traditional dress mix with misty transparencies and rainbow tartans. The collection celebrates fluid identity, primal gestures, and elemental hues, offering a playful, vitalistic approach to fashion that’s both deeply personal and universally expressive.
