FW21: Stella McCartney, Raf Simons, Kenzo, and More

Stella McCartney made a chic statement that combined fantasy and reality for its Fall/Winter 2021 debuts. Elements of glamor, sport, and heritage informed designs embodying the world’s collective readiness for going out after a year devoid of opportunities for opulence. Bold and playful are two words that came to mind when we saw the designs, executed through pairings of unexpected prints, materials, and silhouettes—like a body-hugging dress in satiny fuchsia ruching, a psychedelic jumpsuit in electric blue sequins with voluminous flared legs, and a look composed of a long plaid skirt and green sweater with thigh-high sparkly boots peeking out from underneath. And continuing the house’s journey in responsible fashion, 77 percent of fabrications used in the collection are sustainable, including materials like PVC-free sequins, sustainably sourced wool, and other fibers created through regenerative farming practices.

Introducing its men’s and womenswear collections together, Raf Simons found inspiration in words like synchronicity, ataraxia, equanimity, and dichotomy for its Fall/Winter 2021 debuts. Searching for peace of mind, the looks offered a sense of comfort in ample silhouettes that played with proportions and juxtapositions of elements like texture and color. A strong palette of primary and secondary hues were in solid garments like button-up shirts, loose trousers, and boxy blazers, finished with minimalistic details like high cowled necklines, long gloves, and arm cuffs shaped like skeleton hands. Highlight looks included a quilted coat in chocolate brown with a teal headpiece and yellow pants, a blazer worn over a yellow sweater with a checked bandana tied at the neck, and an all-over teal look accented with matching crimson gloves and a tote bag.

After the passing of Kenzo’s founder Kenzo Takada last fall, the house set out to build a collection celebrating the designer’s life, work, and creative vision for Fall/Winter 2021. Diving into its own archives, Creative Director Felipe Oliveira Baptista was inspired by Kenzo’s organic, intuitive approach, and turned to his most cherished imagery (like landscapes, roses, cocktail glasses, birds, and hortensias) to inform the designs. Presented in motion through a film work, the collection took on a life of its own, seen in an array of vibrant hues, lively prints, and inventive, kinetic silhouettes—like a purple, black, and white striped look with a matching cap and flowing jacket; a monochrome orange pairing of a dress, coat, stockings, and cold-weather boots; and a thick puffer dress with sculptural ruffles printed with blue and white hydrangeas.

Old Hollywood glitz and glam permeated Roger Vivier’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection, “Do We Show?,” looking to icons like Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Edith Piaf, Marlene Dietrich, and Josephine Baker. The house debuted its latest accessories in a film by Creative Director Gherardo Felloni, which reflected the anticipatory circumstances of our current reality, where many of us have had to cancel real-life happenings. At once striking and charming, there were designs like a selection of small embellished handbags (our favorite was a Tiffany-blue design covered in diamond lattice and pearls), casual footwear styles like loafers and boots fit for daily wear, and a selection of elevated heeled boots, which included several pairs in solid, glossy leather, and a design topped with pearls and feathers.

Following its original debut in Paris, Fendi reintroduced its Spring/Summer 2021 couture collection with a presentation at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre. The house’s F-shaped glass vitrines returned, with an installation of rare books and manuscripts exploring Virginia Woolf’s love letter to Vita Sackville-West and the literary Bloomsbury group. The elegant collection made its way through the maze of lush flora and hand-curated literary treasures contained within the glass enclosures, including highlight looks like a sheer gown covered in pearls, elevated suits, and a blue one-shouldered gown styled androgynously.