Gareth Pugh: Love & War Once More

Opening the show with a hardened female bathed in red, Pugh then paraded forward powerful silhouettes, all in black, accessorized with battle-wear, monkish haircuts, Britannia-like helmets—some menacingly spiked, some with draping chains—and faces painted with St. George’s cross in red.

Cross-body zippers and double-breasted buttons played to the theme of protection against powerful headpieces, an array of thick belts, over-the-knee boots, and ultra-long leather gloves. Fitting for the lover and the warrior, a variety of furs and leather lead the show into a dark, artful aesthetic.

Jackets were structured and stiff, and circular collars were raised to surround the neck. Diagonal closures were seen in a variety of ways, including on over-sized puffers, trench coats, and fur- and plastic-topped looks. A sense of elegance was infused through high-waist skirts and floor-length dresses, with not one showing any sight of skin below the knee. Statement shoulders, cape-like vests, and triangular hemlines showed range in Pugh’s modern armor designs. Subtle pockets, voluminous silhouettes, and brazen materials demanded attention.

After presenting in Paris for the past seven years, Pugh made a triumphant return to London to celebrate the battle-ready woman and his label’s 10th anniversary. “This city is where everything started for me, my entire creative family are here, so it’s in everything I do. It’s my home,” he said.