Gareth Pugh has previously described his work as modern armor, and with his fall/winter 2015 collection, a passionate juxtaposition of love and war, he continued to explore this concept.
Opening the show with a hardened female bathed in red, Pugh then paraded forward powerful silhouettes, all in black, accessorized with battle-wear, monkish haircuts, Britannia-like helmets—some menacingly spiked, some with draping chains—and faces painted with St. George’s cross in red.
Zac Posen fall/winter 2017
Cross-body zippers and double-breasted buttons played to the theme of protection against powerful headpieces, an array of thick belts, over-the-knee boots, and ultra-long leather gloves. Fitting for the lover and the warrior, a variety of furs and leather lead the show into a dark, artful aesthetic.
Jackets were structured and stiff, and circular collars were raised to surround the neck. Diagonal closures were seen in a variety of ways, including on over-sized puffers, trench coats, and fur- and plastic-topped looks. A sense of elegance was infused through high-waist skirts and floor-length dresses, with not one showing any sight of skin below the knee. Statement shoulders, cape-like vests, and triangular hemlines showed range in Pugh’s modern armor designs. Subtle pockets, voluminous silhouettes, and brazen materials demanded attention.
Gareth Pugh fall/winter 2015
After presenting in Paris for the past seven years, Pugh made a triumphant return to London to celebrate the battle-ready woman and his label’s 10th anniversary. “This city is where everything started for me, my entire creative family are here, so it’s in everything I do. It’s my home,” he said.
