Whitewall is in Paris for the Fall/Winter 2019 Haute Couture shows. Here, we’re looking at what’s new from Alexandre Vauthier, Givenchy, and Ralph & Russo.
Dressing for the evening never looked as effortless as the designs debuted this week by Alexandre Vauthier. An essence of the 1980s peeked through in the form of tiered waist ruffles, power suits, and voluminous shoulders. Known for his savoir-faire designs, Vauthier began with a classic pairing of navy, black, and white, but wasn’t shy with the inclusion of the occasional burst of pink or Tiffany blue. In some looks, the feminine form was accentuated with cinched waists and fitted silhouettes, while in others, roomy cuts and masculine styles gave off an airy and confident elegance—like the classic tuxedo with the ruffled shirt and carnation boutonniere. Standout looks included business suits worn sans-blouse, a metallic lavender mini dress with exaggerated shoulders, and an all-over black leather look with a matching scarf tied at the neck.
Fittingly named “Noblesse Radicale,” Givenchy’s Haute Couture collection embodied what could be a wardrobe belonging to Elizabeth I, were she alive in the present-day. Great volumes of plumage, eye-catching prints (like an exotic botanic wall-paper print in white, black, and red), and exquisite details like lace and embroidery were striking on silhouettes both atypical and classic. We saw deconstructed evening gowns paired with trousers, the quintessential black dress reimagined with sheer skirts or fluttering white hems. A feathered creation worn by Kaia Gerber appeared to float down the runway in a deep teal to white ombré. Other pieces we loved were the red and white gown with the parachute style top and trails of taffeta strings, the black and white coat with the rounded shoulders, and the shiny steel-colored brocade dress with the ample tiers of fabric.
On the picturesque grounds of the United Kingdom’s embassy in Paris, Ralph & Russo presented its Fall/Winter 2019 Haute Couture collection. Based around the idea of a lively outdoor soirée during the Art Deco era of the 1930s, the collection featured audacious hues like yellow, red, aqua, and pink accompanied by the brightest of whites, and details like glistening strands of pearls, glitzy sequins, and geometric configurations of gems, jewels, and beading. Inspired by the opulence of the times and the works of artist and designer Erté, elongated, sensual draping embraced the feminine silhouette to expose an hourglass shape—seen in pieces like a form hugging salmon dress with peasant sleeves and a plunging neckline, and an iridescent gold gown with a gathered waist and large bow embellishing its one-shouldered style. Other designs we felt most captured the spirit of Art Deco included a pearl-covered dress with feathered cap sleeves, an all-white suit worn with silver heels and a large sparkling necklace, and a black mini dress with fan-shaped details on the side.