Haute Couture FW23: Alexandre Vauthier, Rahul Mishra, and More

This season, Paris Couture Week has been abuzz with covetable, modern designs. Here we’re sharing our favorite Haute Couture FW23 Collections by Roger Vivier, ArdAzAei, Tony Ward, Alexandre Vauthier, Rahul Mishra, and Balenciaga.

Creative Director Gherardo Felloni whisked guests away to an opulent pastel paradise of singular handbags for the Roger Vivier Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Set within the majestic Maison Vivier, Felloni presented his precious hand-crafted designs—elevated with fine details such as intricate embroidery and latticework—which represented the past, present, and future of the alluring city and the enduring French fashion house. Standout pieces drew from the brand’s archives as well as celebrated the elegance of the city streets, its storied creative minds, and celebratory moments. The “Chandelier” was a heavenly tweed structure, completed with hand-beaded baguette crystal stones which showered across the bag like fireworks. The dramatic “Eiffel” dazzled in black beads and stones in geometric patterns, evoking the ravishing mystery inherent in all Parisian women. “Jardin D’Hiver” was a symphony of glass beads, bringing to mind sweeping palace windows and frosted winter gardens. 

ArdAzAei presented “The Diffraction of Light,” a fusion of gemology and fashion, for its Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection. The lavish and inspired collection unfolded within the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, offering an intimate look into the passionate heart and mind of Creative Director Bahareh Ardakani. An ardent student of gemology, Ardakani was energized by both the inner and outer beauty of gems to create an equally radiant and multi-faceted collection. The “Vega” dress evoked the mathematical beauty of a found ceiling in Persia by way of labyrinthine embroidery, beading, and sequins. The “Polaris” dress rejoiced in a collaboration with folding artist Joan Sallas and Parisian pleating aficionados Les Ateliers Lognon; semi-sheer metallic lurex and finely woven silk met in a twinkling dance of light and three-dimensional movement. Billowing dresses were juxtaposed with suits that cut close to the body, connected by asymmetric lines and celestial hues of silver, cream, raspberry, and blue. 

“Under My Skin” was the poetic chant heard floating down the runway during Tony Ward’s Couture Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection. Shape-shifting dresses in beguiling combinations of velvet, taffeta, and charmeuse allowed skin to breathe, glow, and speak. Models in mesmerizing designs reminiscent of swirling skies, billowing fire, and blooming florals, in decadent hues of white, green, orange, and violet, appeared as mother nature personified. A mini-dress in intricate layers of sequins and embroidery blossomed with mint green tulle, embellished with a gossamer-like cape. A sea-green gown wrapped protectively around the body, leaving open a triangle of midriff, while sophisticated, algae-like beading cascaded down to the floor. Black leaf-like shapes were layered over sheer fabric in a deft, cutting-edge take on contemporary couture. 

Alexandre Vauthier championed a future of powerful, stylish women with the Fall/Winter 2023 Haute Couture collection. Touches of Grecian design in elegantly draped fabric, gold accents, and asymmetrical lines made for refined yet wholly imaginative garments. A silver lurex bikini was enhanced with fabric flowing like a waterfall down a single leg, while a metallic strapless top and sleek pants were enveloped by curling waves of fabric like a celestial halo. Bronze brocades were offered in regal tops and trousers, evolving to a brown leather jumpsuit with a voluminous, ruched cape. The iconic trench coat was reimagined as a sheer, airy dress in midnight blue, while a bewitching feathered dress in black would have charmed Athena herself. 

“We, The People,” the Couture Fall 2023 collection by Rahul Mishra, was passionately dedicated to the Indian artisans who spend thousands of hours creating a collective garment. In a complex dialogue between skilled designers, tailors, and embroiderers, the one-of-a-kind pieces were full of life, light, and beauty, connecting the legendary craftsmanship of local Indian villages with the world. Metallic hues of silver, violet, and gold graced the runway in organic floral motifs and embroideries. Tiger imagery prowled across a shimmering, strappy evening dress, while blossoming pink florals gave way to a strapless top of silver feathers. Orchid leaves provided the framework for a sparkly mini dress, and rose-colored lotus flowers ebbed and flowed across a sheer black jumpsuit and onto luxurious, tailored jackets that reached nearly to the floor.  

Balenciaga’s 52nd Couture collection of avant-garde garments, eyewear, jewelry, and footwear was a polished and bold presentation in perpetual motion. Dashing cashmere overcoats took on a windblown effect, both withstanding and in solidarity with the elements. Multiple textures of pinstriped wool, denim, leather, and cotton flowed freely across the collection, offering looks for every shade of day or night. A sequin-embroidered dress with corkscrew tulle ribbons was darkly romantic and futuristic, as was the raw-edged tuxedo and stretch silk tailored shirt. Abstract yet restrained, couture jewelry was inspired by the archive and the brand’s favorite models—such as the mod Danielle earrings, named after Danielle Slavik, designed after a pair from 1967. Sunglasses were sharp in 18k gold or sporty in wraparound fashion, with dark-tinted lenses expertly harnessing that iconic Balenciaga mystique.