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Haute Couture SS19: Givenchy, Alexandre Vauthier, Zuhair Murad

The Haute Couture presentations have dazzled us so far in Paris this week. Here, we’re sharing our thoughts on the Spring/Summer 2019 collections from Givenchy, Alexandre Vauthier, and Zuhair Murad.

The lower galleries of the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris provided the setting for Givenchy’s haute couture Spring/Summer 2019 show on Tuesday. The brightly lit, 1930s architecture provided the perfect setting for the collection, named “Bleached Canvas” by Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller. Angles, volumes, and clean lines in bold red, black, yellow, and white, put forth a message of feminine power. The tailored garments—even in delicate fabrics like tulle, organza, lace, and satin—featured peplums, capes, and pleats that packed a punch.

Alexandre Vauthier delivered a flashy, flouncy Spring/Summer 2019 collection in Paris this week. In an industrial setting, boasting high ceilings and concrete floors, we saw a lot of leg, ruffles, bows, shoulders, and plunging necklines. Slouchy pointed boots were paired with laid back styling—hair hung naturally parted in the center and makeup was minimal. Lots of sequins in skirts, pants, and jackets were complemented by billowing sleeves and collars. Many models wore the designer’s latest sunglass collaboration with Alain Mikli. I wanted to create a Parisian statement utilizing the essential French codes while maintaining a super natural look,” said Vauthier.

For this season, Zuhair Murad took inspiration from the depths of the sea. The “Aquatic Serenade” collection was full of movement and rich hues, that flowed from blues to teals, purples to pinks, and whites to silver. A runway of undulating blue served as the backdrop for ocean-inspired gowns in silk chiffons and tulles. Pleating, cape sleeves, and draped details called to mind waves, while beaded armholes and curving cutouts were reminiscent of coral and sea shells. The luminescent looks boasted varying hems, slits, belted waists, accented shoulders, and plenty of shine.

 

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Kelly Wearstler

THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
2023

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Whitewall's Winter 2024 cover story spotlights the artist just as his time with the L’Académie des Beaux-Arts Residency was wrapping up.

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