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Leather, Lace, and Serious Sleeves: Saint Laurent’s Eighties Flashback

Katy Donoghue

29 September 2016

Designer Anthony Vaccarello took a trip back in time with Saint Laurent‘s spring/summer 2017 collection, back to the life of Yves Saint Laurent, and the famous women of his time. Looking at archival photographs, he found particular inspiration in Paloma Picasso and the 1972 “Scandal” collection she gave life to.

The collection felt oh-so-eighties with highly exaggerated sleeves, lots of leg, and dramatic sweetheart necklines. There was loads of black leather—in bustier’s, boy’s jackets, minis, and more. Pulling from a cornerstone of the fashion house vocabulary, Vaccarello played with the tuxedo, going wide, cropping coats, and slouching pants.

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Saint Laurent spring/summer 2017

As we’ve seen in other collections this season, a lot of attention was given to the shoulder, whether in angular voluminous outcroppings, one-shoulder tops, or overall sheen, lace, or sequins.

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Poetic set designs underpinned the fall/winter 2024 collections by Saint Laurent, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Chanel, and more.
Anthony Vaccarello imagined a collection for Saint Laurent that played with our idea of visibility for winter 2024.

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Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.