LFW FW20: Molly Goddard, Rejina Pyo

Presented in a grand hall of columns and tall, arching windows, Molly Goddard returned to the runway with flounces and frills for Fall/Winter 2020. Beginning with a 1992 street photograph by Shoichi Aoki from the Japanese publication Fruits, the image captured the designer as a small child, clad in a BMX knit sweater and ruffled skirt, walking hand in hand with her father. In similar fashion, dresses were layered over colorful knits and paired with thick platform loafers, adding a punk edge to dresses fit for a Victorian era porcelain doll. Warm and cheerful hues like yellow, salmon, and blue were seen on looks like a ruffled tulle top, worn over a patterned cardigan and paired with plaid trousers; or a ruched dress with black ribbon details. Many looks were accompanied by knit beanies, topped with an oversized bow.

Rejina Pyo debuted its Fall/Winter 2020 collection against the backdrop of an alleyway, highlighting streetwear elegance and elevated everyday looks with asphalt and moody lighting. The brand drew inspiration from the reflective nature of Harry Gruyaert’s photographs and his use of color and texture, translated into materials like cotton and wool twill, patchwork shearling, soft cashmere, and armor-like leathers and laminates. A palette of more serious hues like blue, forest green, and a range of neutrals, signified a shift in attitude surrounding events that have unfolded in recent times. Our favorite looks included a calf length black leather skirt worn with a twill jacket and hidden sparkling blouse; an overcoat and silky blue pants, paired with slouchy black and white boots; and an iridescent blue dress with a coat in multicolored blue and brown fur.