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Georgian designer, David Koma, graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2009 with a distinction in his MA and has since gained a tight celebrity following and developed a unique style, creating show-stopping body-conscious, architectural dresses for tough, confident women – all before the age of 30. This season saw his signature futuristic, sculptural style take a new turn and look back to the ancient Japenese art of Kyudo.
Kyodo is the Japanese marshal art of archery and a form of meditation based upon Zen philosophies. Clear references to Kyodo warriors were seen in breastplates, harnesses and panelling, with holes punctured into every garment, bringing a sporty element to a highly structured, powerful collection.
The color palette was largely monochrome, with injections of royal and powder blue. Shapes were strong: skirts were A-line with asymmetrical hems or tight pencil-cut just below the knees while rousers were cropped on the ankle. There was a major graphic element, as well, with a new addition for Koma of bold prints, stripes, and zig-zags across the body.
Following his signature style, body-con reigned throughout in celebration of the female form. One word that will be synonymous with Koma’s spring/summer 2014 collection, though, is bondage. Looks verged on the S&M with straps and belts and chokers. Leather was the fabric of the collection, created in a light way for summer with structured frames, cut-outs and fringing. Dresses were spliced at the waists, crop tops were paramount, and every item was flesh baring in new and innovative ways. It was bold, sexy, and daring.
Hair was worn scraped back into tight ponytails and make-up was minimal as models walked with severe expressions in their samurai gear – the focus here was on the garments alone. Shoes complimented the collection perfectly in chunky heels with t-bars and ankle straps.
This was, without a doubt, the most powerful collection of London Fashion Week. It was refreshing to see a spring/summer collection that didn’t find the need to incorporate pastel colous or floral motifs, or transform women into delicate feminine creatures. The David Koma woman is a warrior, bound in armour of leather and neoprene.