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Courtesy of LOEWE.
Courtesy of LOEWE.
Courtesy of Maison Margiela.
Courtesy of Maison Margiela.
Courtesy of Maison Margiela.
Courtesy of Nemozena.
Courtesy of Nemozena.
Courtesy of Nemozena.
Courtesy of Nemozena.
Fashion

Loewe, Maison Margiela, Nemozena: PFW SS19

By Eliza Jordan

September 28, 2018

We’re continuing our look at Paris Fashion Week, focused on new Spring/Summer 2019 collections from brands like Loewe, Maison Margiela, and Nemozena.

Dynamic and bright, flouncy and streamlined, Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection had us guessing what was missing. At the Maison de I’UNESCO, in restored mid-century rooms, models entered through a recreated façade of the experimental London-based gallery SIGNALS, open from 1964–1966. There, designer Jonathan Anderson sourced inspiration for the new line from contemporary art and early Modernism. Artist Lara Favaretto staged her spinning car wash brushes, providing the perfect setting for the various textures that accompanied: rustic woven baskets by LOEWE Craft Prize finalist Joe Hogan placed around the room; record players holding ceramics by Ryoji Koi; and a room full of soap bubbles. As models walked, we saw various volumes and oddly satisfying balances between fabrics and cuts—like ruched tops, fisherman sweaters, bell sleeves, and tops with takeover ostrich feather detailing. Hogan’s bags complemented several looks—the Puzzle bag appeared in woven calfskin and the Gate bag in thatched straw. Other accessories that demanded attention were the Kite bag, cascading with leather fringe, and large sunglasses with leather and silver stem tassels.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of LOEWE.

Maison Margiela’s moody new “Co-ed” collection had a few mysterious twists. Blue latex pants, shiny gold shoes, black top hats, and more bold details were seen trailing down a polished concrete runway floor, while an onslaught of gender-bending looks followed. The collection, an ode to authenticity, also paid homage to the defiant new generation of today, screaming, “Wear whatever you want! Be whoever you want!” And on the runway, we saw and felt just that, loving the transformative deconstruction and use of unique materials for a big middle finger to binary stigmatisms. Skirts mutated into capes, lace shift dresses were bonded with transparent georgette, and slits, slashes, panels, cuffs, and bows drew our eyes from one to the next. A sheer force, the new collection proposed an inventive wardrobe for a new approach to identity.

Nemozena’s “Reversible” capsule collection was presented as an installation at the Musée Nissim de Camondo alongside the “Aglow” exhibition outside. The collection full of pieces that you can wear inside-out, pieces like tops, dresses, and jackets were seen with colorful patterns joined by color-blocking. Short navy blue dresses had capes, a long tan trench coat had only one full-length side, and button-down long-sleeved tops had vertical striped on one side with horizontal stripes on the other. While there were plenty of staple pieces and subdued colors in the collection, we made note of a sweet pattern—built with shapes of all sizes and colors—that donned several looks, including a sleeveless, tiered ruffle dress.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of LOEWE.

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Maison Margiela.
Eliza JordanJonathan AndersonLoeweMaison MargielanemozenaParis Fashion WeekPFW 2018PFW SS19Whitewall

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