Paris Fashion Week made waves in the industry with innovative presentations from leading designers Loewe, Miu Miu, Marine Serre, and more, each offering stunning collections that captivated audiences. From bittersweet farewells to bold new silhouettes, these shows were filled with moments that celebrated the complexity of women and fashion. Whitewall presents six unforgettable collections that left a lasting impression.
Miu Miu Defines Femininity
Courtesy of Miu Miu.
Courtesy of Miu Miu.
Garments take on their own structure, creating curves and silhouettes beside the body of the model in Miu Miu latest collection. The fall/ winter collection by Miuccia Prada opens a discussion about femininity, and what it means to be a woman. Bras reshape the form of the body, coats cinch at the waist with broad shoulders, and fur capes signify power. Inside the Palais d’Iéna, the collection and setting merge together in a bold statement. In true Miu Miu style, the looks are filled with fresh colors of corals and turquoise emphasized against grey knit neutrals. Broaches, electric purple boots, and luxurious bags define the collection as exclusive and freshly feminine, each piece drawing the eye to the form of the body.
Marine Serre’s Red Room
Courtesy of Marine Serre.
Courtesy of Marine Serre.
Inspired by legendary director David Lynch, Marine Serre’s fall/ winter collection explores the line between reality and fantasy. The runway resembles the Red Room from the series “Twin Peaks,” with lush scarlet curtains adding a pop of red to the neutral looks. Each look served as an ideal character to embody, playing off the financial motif throughout the collection. Taking over the La Monnaie de Paris, the ultimate symbol of money in Paris, Marine Serre emphasizes the contrast of the fashion house’s resistance to financial corruption. The garments are mature, opulent, and eco-conscious, with upcycled pieces. Oversized puffer jackets pay homage to icon André Leon Talley, with dramatic silhouettes owning the room.
Loewe Takes Over the Hotel de Maisons
Courtesy of Loewe.
Courtesy of Loewe.
Parting with its Creative Director, Jonathan Anderson, Loewe presents an exhibition of garments celebrating the talent of Anderson throughout the years. Titled “Scrapbook of Ideas,” the fall/ winter collection is a mosaic of inspiration and standout pieces. Dozens of posed mannequins filled the Hôtel de Maisons throughout seventeen themed rooms. The rooms are filled not only with the stunning work of the fashion house but also of other artists like Anthea Hamilton’s “Giant Pumpkin No 2,” which appeared in the Loewe fall winter 2022 women’s runway show. The collection partnered with the Josef & Anni Albers Foundation, taking several points of inspiration from Josef Albers’s “Homage to the Square” series. Diverse displays of pattern, proportion, and material show the craftsmanship of the house and gratitude for Anderson’s talent.
Vaillant’s Modernologie of a Muse
Courtesy of Vaillant.
Courtesy of Vaillant.
Vaillant‘s fall/ winter collection portrays the complexity of women constantly evolving. In collaboration with Peter and May, a pair of sunglasses inspired by iconic muses Audrey Hepburn and Lou Reed highlight femininity in chic pink, white, black, and tortoise shell. Taking inspiration from influential women in Alice Vaillant’s life, faux mink capes mimic Marlène Dietrich, while other silhouettes exude sensual beauty with Lingerie. Patchwork dresses and skirts add dimension to elegant feminine forms with polka dots, stripes, and florals.
Wales Bonner Features Theaster Gates
Courtesy of Wales Bonner.
Courtesy of Wales Bonner.
The Wales Bonner autumn/ winter collection seamlessly blended masculinity and femininity, striking a unique balance between utility and elegance. Drawing inspiration from archival images in Ebony and Jet magazines, the collection featured captivating fringe dresses in navy satin and ivory cashmere, evoking feminine glamour. Open-back knit dresses were paired with tough leather biker jackets and delicate Mongolian shearling, creating a perfect contrast of strength and grace. The Selah cropped T-shirt, adorned with imagery from Moneta Sleet Jr.’s photographic archive, paid homage to Theaster Gates‘ “The Black Image Corporation” project. While indigo-dyed denim and corduroy contrasts, alongside Italian leather coats with gold lock closures, showcased exceptional craftsmanship.
Gabriela Hearst Worships Women in Fall/ Winter Collection
Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.
Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.
Influenced by the work of the late archeologist, anthropologist, and mythologist Marija Gimbutas, Gabriela Hearst’s latest collection celebrates the authority of women. Motifs symbolized the creativity and independence of women shown through snakes, chevrons, and spirals on garments. Snakes are featured on cashmere jacquard, recycled denim, hand-embroidered leather scales, and bonded python sourced from Inversa, a program that repurposes the skin of invasive species in the Everglades. Hearst uses diverse materials, including repurposed vintage mink fur and updated vintage bags complete with exotic skins. In addition to fine material, new bags stand out in the collection, including the Marija tote in shearling, suede, and nappa leather.
