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With London Fashion Week just over, we’re looking back on the Fall/Winter 2021 collections debuted by Burberry, Dunhill, Simone Rocha, and Molly Goddard.
Entitled “Escape,” Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry menswear paid homage to the relationship of nature and humanity through a celebration of the freedom of expression. Shown within a specially designed environment at the house’s Regent Street boutique in London, the Fall/Winter 2021 collection offered subtle shifts in tradition to encourage individualism—including the incorporation of elements like layered pieces, skirts, and tall, fitted boots. Burberry icons (like trench coats and the classic beige hue synonymous to the house) were seen in evolved iterations, like a belted, double-breasted overcoat with a V-shaped neckline and a trench coat in a voluminous gray fur material. Other highlights included a letterman jacket paired with a calf-length pleated shirt and trousers; a quilted shirt in hues of brown, white, and blue; and a gray suit jacket with glittering gold shorts and matching ankle boots.
Dunhill presented its Fall/Winter 2021 collection for men, “Compendium,” through a film that featured a musical collaboration with IG Culture. Described by Creative Director Mark Weston as embodying a scruffily stylish confidence, the house has chosen to zoom the lens in, focusing on the individual garments over a greater theme. The collection features masculine styles with a playful touch, combining elements like utility with formality or homespun and urbane. We loved looks like a houndstooth overcoat and trousers styled with a colorful striped scarf, shoulder bag, and sneakers; a trench coat and double-breasted suit pairing with zippers up the trouser hems; and a roomy overcoat in black with a pink floral shirt peeking out from underneath, worn with a logo baseball cap.
Simone Rocha entranced viewers with contrasting elements made for the fragile rebel in its Fall/Winter 2021 designs. The house’s signature dress-centric collection was executed through key materializations of satin, tulle, and leather, seen on dreamlike silhouettes worthy of a modern-day fairytale. An innocent naiveté suggested through girlish details (like braided updos, floral motifs, gloved hands, and ruffles) was countered by a protective quality and a sense of toughness, infused through chunky footwear and the sculptural manipulation of leather. Looks we’re still thinking about include a pink tulle dress embroidered with flowers; a pearl-and-leather look featuring a voluminous white gown with a leather harness and a pearlescent clutch; and a dress with an empire waistline, composed of a leather bodice with puffed sleeves and a patchwork of multiple florals, tulles, and embroideries composing its calf-length skirt.
Fluff and femininity remained mainstays of Molly Goddard’s designs for the Fall/Winter 2021 season. Without her usual access to people-watching, trips to the library, or shopping, the designer looked to books she had in her home to reinvent classic British styles. Color was a main facet of the season (including a lively palette of hues like pinks, greens, blues, and reds), which saw styles updated through details like extra ruffles, styling decisions, and the choice of prints. Garments possessed a clear vision of their place of origin while upholding a completely fresh feel—like a prom-reminiscent dress with tiers of red and black tulle; a sheer ruffled dress in pale green paired with a patterned sweater vest and platform boots; and a denim mini skirt and a simple black shirt styled with statement accessories, including lace-up sandals worn over argyle socks, a striped scarf, and a ruffled purse.