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With the closing of London Fashion Week, we’re reflecting on a number of showstoppers. Here, we’ve given you a few more collections on our must-see list that are deserving of a little extra attention.
The influences of Scottish heritage are evident in Pringle of Scotland’s new line. With traditional elements like Shetland yarn, the Fair Isle print, and knits inspired by the indigenous agate stone, Pringle of Scotland stays true to its roots while continuing its marriage of tradition and modernity. The brand is bringing back classics with a new spin on items, like the logo crewneck jumper and knitted trousers, which are reminiscent of the sportswear style made famous by Pringle in the 80s. We also saw a fresh take on traditional diamond argyle in an exclusive, hand-painted print by illustrator Frida Wannerberger.
Burberry’s collection, Time, was a celebratory offering as much as a runway show, as the event marked designer Christopher Bailey’s final hurrah with the brand. With a soundtrack by Jimmy Somerville, The Communards, and Bronski Beat, models presented the pieces in front of Our Time—an installation borrowed from the Museum of Old and New Art in Australia. In addition to new designs, the line (reflecting on the past, celebrating the present, and heralding the future) revisited the brand’s past iconic designs like the trench coat and the military coat. A highlight was the latest version of Burberry’s most iconic symbol, the Rainbow check, with mixed in colors of the rainbow. Past and present campaign stars—like Edie Campbell, Adwoa Aboah, and Cara Delevingne (who was originally discovered by Bailey)—walked in the show.
Chalayan’s new collection, Périphérique, uses fashion as a way to touch on the current immigration condition in Paris. The pieces embody a realistic nod to violence, and are seen with pristine tailoring that allows for a gradual transition into athletic wear. With that, there is a sense of unison and continuous movement, pointing at the need for embracing immigrants for a restored sense of community. Parts of the collection, like the North African blanket weaves, stay true to Chalayan’s typical black-and-white tailored style. Also seen are peeks of brighter colors that are masked by neutrals, and prints inspired by an abstracted map of the suburb of Paris—the place most affected by the unintegrated immigration.
Indulgent decadence is the theme of Peter Pilotto’s new collection, and we see its inspiration (the antique riches of Persia by way of secessionist Vienna) throughout. Designers Pilotto and Christopher de Vos used a color palette full of muted jewel tones, midnight blues, and noble florals to carry deep necklines, cinched waists, and cascading skirts down the runway. As the collection finished in a sweep of elegant drapery, brushed mohair, and quilted silk, we undoubetedly were left thinking of things like rich tapestries, the Biedermeier era, and stained glass.