Marchesa’s spring/summer 2014 runway show was held at the Celeste Bartos Forum at the New York Public Library for a second time last week. The vaulted ceilings of pale blue and white-latticed panes above were in harmony with the 1930s and 1950s silhouettes that made their way around the winding catwalk.
The models were styled simply, with a dark eggplant lip and shiny hair worn down with thin feather plumes that harked back to previous Marchesa collections. That casual, airy elegance was reflected in the garments, too. Nothing was overly structured or form-fitting. It all looked so effortless to wear – especially silk slip dresses with lace cut-out embellishments and floral embroidery. The color palette stuck to ivory, pale grey, pale blue, ballet pink, light blush, and black.
Courtesy of Mara Hoffman.
But there was also a subtle edginess to the collection – most obviously shown in the Scott Campbell floral and butterfly tattoos on a several models’ shoulders and backs. There were, too, asymmetrically draped tulle, lots of fringe that whipped from side to side, and an extremely voluminous coat made entirely of silk organza petals and dip-dyed feathers. Cheeky bloomers peeked through floor-length skirts and dresses. One dress was so dripping in ivory pearls that it could actually be heard making its way around the room.
The collection felt both lovely and exhilarating, with obvious moments of material experimentation and that same devotion to femininity we love about Marchesa.
Tim Coppens spring/summer 2016
