A season of revelation unfolded in Paris this week, where designers carved new vocabularies of emotion and imagination. From dynamic collaborations to intuitive tailoring, each collection carried a singular rhythm alive with intimacy and audacity, like Matières Fécales, Ami Paris, Gabriela Hearst, Anrealage, and more.
Anrealage’s Visualization of Life
Courtesy of Anrealage.
Courtesy of Anrealage.
Kunihiko Morinaga’s Anrealage ignited Paris with a collection that felt like tenderness and imagination personified. Partnering with HERALBONY, a platform that champions artists with disabilities, Morinaga evolved garments into vivacious creations carrying the sincerity of eighteen diverse voices. “When I encountered the artists, I felt I had touched an unseen, sacred presence,” read the show notes. “What they created was not mere art, but the crystallization of life itself.”
“What they created was not mere art, but the crystallization of life itself,”
Kunihiko Morinaga
Dresses inflated as chambers of the heart, hems oscillated, and wired structures conjured surreal botanical organisms. Printed by KYOCERA’s sustainable FOREARTH technology, the textiles danced with dreamy landscapes. Rapturous accessories, including feline-shaped handbags with robotic tails, brought forth comfort and style. Collaged with a soundtrack created alongside HERALBONY, dazzling with heartbeats and human soundscapes, the presentation illuminated how uniquely each of us sees the world.
Le Début by Fidan Novruzova
Courtesy of Fidan Novruzova.
Courtesy of Fidan Novruzova.
Fidan Novruzova staged her first runway presentation, “Le Début,” in the chic setting of Le Molière at Palais-Royal, enveloping guests in a salon of polish and confidence. Invoking the spirit of the 1920s and 1980s, Novruzova’s tenth collection raised the curtain on looks as mementos and momentum. “There’s a more mature silhouette and a big focus on a woman’s wardrobe that reflects her needs,” said Novruzova. Neoprene skirts brushed longer lengths, clasp bags grew streamlined, and zippered bombers meshed utility with grace.
“There’s a more mature silhouette and a big focus on a woman’s wardrobe that reflects her needs,”
Fidan Novruzova
Square toes, curved sleeves, and conceptual pockets—the design codes she has cultivated since founding her house in 2020—appeared with knowing precision. Military epaulets, silver eyelets, and discreet fringe nodded to personal memories of the early 2010s, when she first dreamed of fashion in Azerbaijan and Moldova. Parkas and slip dresses gave way to cargo textures balanced with fine Italian threads, and collaborations with MOYA jewelry and ASICS Sports Style broke the mold.
Zomer Invites Exaggerated Play
Courtesy of ZOMER.
Courtesy of ZOMER.
At zomer, designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha offered a runway that swung between extremes—from mini to major, innocent to sophisticated. Their fifth collection reveled in the elasticity of proportion, with silhouettes growing playfully. Dresses elongated beyond measure, babygirl flourishes and theatrics, and meticulous tailoring made quite a scene. The creative duo leaned into the fun of it all, infusing color and humor with infectious energy.
Soft t-shirts carried cheeky cut-outs, while statement pieces took on the scale of sculptures. The collection soared with optimism, a reminder that fashion can be mischievous and moving. Beauty direction by Janeen and hair styling by Ryo Narushima reinforced the tension between simplicity and drama, while a sneaker collaboration with Finnish heritage brand Karhu grounded the zomer darling—right where she was always meant to be.
The Art of Seduction by Tom Ford
Courtesy of Tom Ford.
Courtesy of Tom Ford.
The Tom Ford presentation choreographed moments of seduction with great intimacy, a smoky-toned dialogue between concealment and revelation. Models moved like dancers across lacquered midnight-blue space, their silhouettes mirrored beneath sparks of skin. Fabrics unfolded as a tactile melody: silks clung to curves, leather gleamed with provocation, cashmere flowed with decadent softness. Hints of deep emotion threaded through—lace revealing fragility, metallic rings imparting awe, slits that revealed entrancement.
The palette shifted from noble whites and rich browns to jolts of pastel blue and incandescent orange, painting desire as a kaleidoscope. Models’ graphic hairstyles and sultry lips heightened the sense of performance, offering figures of majesty and allure. For those who believe beauty itself is resistance, moonlight, and magic, this one’s for you.
Gabriela Hearst Offers Tarot Transformations
Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.
Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.
“I have always been fascinated with the Tarot. My mother gave me my first Tarot at 18. I have been going to the same tarot reader for over a decade, every June,” said Gabriela Hearst in the show notes. “This oracle, a medium of which we do not know the origins with certainty, has been with our civilization for centuries or more, always transmitting.” Thus, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection became a personal, divine ritual, drawing from the Major Arcana of tarot, and each garment corresponded to a beckoning card.
“I have always been fascinated with the Tarot,”
Gabriela Hearst
The Empress appeared through thousands of hand-crafted leather flowers on a voluminous white dress, embodying love and wisdom. The Wheel of Fortune whirled across graphic black-and-white panels, while the Sun glimmered in foiled linen appliquéd with leaves. Hearst’s commitment to sustainability intertwined with mysticism: Sea Island cotton cultivated with rainwater, charms repurposed from historic factories tinkling like omens. Collaborations with artisans in Bolivia deepened the collection’s sense of global community and craft.
Ami Paris Toasts to Everyday Radiance
Courtesy of Ami Paris.
At Ami Paris, Alexandre Mattiussi invited friends of the house to a Parisian apartment within the picturesque Place des Victoires. The collection was a beautiful ode to daily life, to mornings lit by casual ritual, to wardrobes that glide seamlessly between duties and pleasures. Mattiussi shared a parade of looks: striped overshirts layered organically, lace dresses fluttering with airiness, and tailored jackets that ranged from closely fitted to relaxed. Colors bloomed in matcha green, pastel yellow, and ink blue, set beside neutrals of beige and off-white.
Luxurious fabrics including gabardine, lace, organza, and raw denim were woven into a harmony of texture. Leather goods evolved with playful pragmatism: the Mimi introduced in miniature, the Carrousel reimagined in fresh new hues. The presentation was celebratory yet approachable, and the brand’s ethos of “friendly luxury” was as authentic and delightful as ever.
Matières Fécales’ Ode to Hannah Rose
Courtesy of Matières Fécales.
Courtesy of Matières Fécales.
“I drew Hannah since I was 11 years old, long before I even met her,” said the Matières Fécales show notes. “I was always drawing an elegant bald and eyebrow-less figure with rose-like lips.” At Place Vendôme, the brand unveiled Hannah SS26, a collection conceived as a love letter, a defiance, and a redefinition of luxury. Inspired by co-founder Hannah Rose—the muse, partner, and embodiment of uncompromised beauty—the show wove together personal mythology and collective resistance. Sculpted duchess satin tailoring radiated in Madame Rose pink, while déchiré tweed threaded with tulle unraveled the codes of French elitism.
“I drew Hannah since I was 11 years old, long before I even met her,”
Steven Raj Bhaskaran
Frayed denim and transparent silks imparted defiance, their seams flowing as banners of freedom. Partnerships with milliner Stephen Jones and Christian Louboutin widened the vision: distorted pumps, sharp hats, and silver “Needle” jewels heightened the conversation between elegance and edge. Ball gowns exploded with hand-dyed chiffon roses, culminating in a finale dress of deconstructed blooms—beauty alive in its decay. Set to Lewis G Burton’s “Mother Milk,” the presentation taught us that fearless love can be the most radical act of luxury.
