Menswear FW21: Gabriela Hearst and Celine

CELINE Homme’s wardrobe for the fashion-conscious, contemporary man was infused with notions of romance and renaissance for the Fall/Winter 2021 season. Entitled “Teen Knight Poem,” the collection was debuted with a film shot in a grand castle setting, (directed and styled by the house’s Hedi Slimane), where a cast of long-locked models strutted the exterior pillars and walkways dressed in romanticized takes on edgy menswear classics. While pieces like tailored overcoats, biker jackets, knitwear, and trousers weren’t inherently different, looks were styled with a certain charm and ceremony that reminded us of historic dress, achieved through elements like chainmail-reminiscent necklaces, high frilled collars, dangling cross earrings, and rouged lips. A few of our favorite pieces from the collection included the array of striking outerwear—like a black and zebra print bomber with a rock-n-roll attitude or a cloak in flowing black material—a pair of black sequined harem trousers, and the selection of silver statement jewelry accompanying each look.

Gabriela Hearst took to the snowy streets of Manhattan to capture its Fall/Winter 2021 debuts, tasking the presentation to the photographer Izack Morales and filmmaker James Dylan. The Uruguayan revolutionary leader José Gervasio Artigas and the figure of the Gaucho (a skilled horsemen) informed the collection, which took cues from a portrait of Gervasio Artigas done by the painter Juan Manuel Blanes. A palette of rich hues like navy, bottle green, copper, scarlet, and deep Bordeaux was seen across a selection of deadstock and recycled materials like cashmere felt, houndstooth wool, cashmere, and silk. The collection’s clean, unfussed silhouettes saw the creation of quintessential pieces for a man who enjoys getting dressed both in his day-to-day life and on more momentous occasions—like a monochrome suit in gray with a long coat and a Gaucho-reminiscent fabric overlay; a neatly tailored suit and sweater in speckled black wool; and a layered tee-shirt, button-up, and cardigan trio, worn with relaxed trousers.